At some point, every little kid asks for a pet. When you are choosing a pet, you need to consider the traits of the dog. Dachshunds are cute and adorable but you need to know if they will fit into your lifestyle.
Small Size Means Apartment Dog
The dachshund is famous for the "hot dog" shape and they are just too cute for words. They come in two sizes both regular and mini. In either case, they are small and will work well for apartments.
Stubborn but Smart
Anyone who has ever owned a weenie dog will tell you, they are smart and stubborn. Potty training can be an issue for some and many will have "excitement" accidents even after housebreaking. You can do some things to help prevent the excitement potty-ing if you take the time. It is more training you than it is training the dog.
One Person Dog but Likes Families
These cuties will develop a deep bond with one person. Whomever they see as their main person will get the king's share of attention. However, they are good with families and children.
Since dachshunds are so tiny, you need to introduce them to children when they are puppies. Older dogs will be a little nervous around children. Additionally, you will need to teach the children to be careful around the tiny dog.
Grooming Needs of the Weenie Dog
All your weenie dogs will need some brushing. Even the short hair dogs will shed during the summer. So unless you want to vacuum up tiny hairs, brushing your dog will be necessary.
Of course, the longer hair dogs will need more attention. They will need to be brushed daily to prevent knots and mats. If you brush your dog on a regular basis, bathing will only be required a few times a year.
Barking and More Barking
While you can teach a dachshund not to bark, it will be difficult. This is something you will need to start as a puppy and never encourage. However, if an excited bark, an alerted bark, or a friendly greeting does not bother you, then they will be perfect.
Rarely do dachshunds bark out of meanness. Although, if they are a single dog and more dogs are introduced at an older age, this may be a problem. Since the dachshund is a single person dog, they may bark to keep other dogs from hogging their person.
Breeding the Weenie Dog
As sad as it is, most dachshunds cannot give birth naturally. They have to have c-sections. Therefore, I beg you, please have your dog spayed or neutered.
All dogs require special attention and have different needs. Please read more about your dog choice and learn as much as you can before adopting. Then you can make an informed decision.
Friday, May 28, 2010
Best Flea Medicine For Dogs
K9 Advantix Blue kills 90-100% of flea on your dog within 12 hours and provides protection against re-infestation for four weeks or more. K9 Advantix also kills mosquitoes and most ticks that might try to attach themselves to your pooch.
This popular flea medicine for dogs is available without a prescription at prices that any dog owner can afford. Advantix Blue is a great product unless your dog is friends with a cat.
Ingredients in K9 Advantix can be harmful to cats if the cat is one that rubs against or grooms your dog. For homes where cats and dogs reside together, pet owners should choose Advantage, Frontline Plus or Revolution dog flea medicine.
Revolution for dogs is widely recommended by veterinarians and is a prescriptive flea medicine for dogs that also solves other health problems in canines. Revolution eliminates fleas while it also protects the animal from heartworm and other worm parasites. Revolution is approved by the FDA and is a systemic, broad spectrum parasiticide that has been shown to offer a high safety factor for canines.
Compared to other spot on flea products for dogs, Revolution is more costly than leading brands but adds the benefit of heartworm prevention that others lack.
Frontline Plus provides excellent flea killing properties with tick protection for dogs. In many areas of the country ticks are real problems especially in spring and fall. Ticks carry disease. Ticks are known to carry Lyme disease which afflicts humans but Lyme disease can also be spread to canines. Like fleas, ticks are dirty little insects that suck blood and not insects you care to have on your pup.
You may choose the option of orally administered dog flea medicines such as Program or Sentinel. These products prevent fleas from maturing but do not kill adult fleas present on the dog. They are not recommended for animals that suffer from flea allergies but are effective in interrupting the life stages of fleas to prevent the insects from maturing and reproducing. For dogs infested with fleas, owners may use the one dose Capstar in conjunction with one of the oral flea medicines to quickly kill off adult fleas.
For total protection from fleas, pet owners may need to take action over and above treating their dog. If a dog with fleas Is in your home you may need to kill fleas in your carpets, upholstery as well as thoroughly washing dog bedding and the area around the bedding.
If you live in states where fleas are active year round and climate is not cold enough to kill off the populations in the winter, you may want to treat your entire yard for fleas. The strong sprays meant to kill lawn insects are no longer available to home owners. The poisons in the sprays were great at killing fleas but poisonous to the environment.
Organic enthusiasts suggest sprinkling or spreading diatomaceous earth over your grass. This will not harm humans or pets but will kill fleas and other insects. It is definitely environmentally safe but you may need to re-spread this product every time you mow and most homeowners will not have the time or patience for this remedy.
Some professional pest control companies offer to spray your yard with chemicals such as Talstar or Demon WP which kill fleas as well as ticks, ants, roaches, spiders and other common bugs. These products contain growth regulators just as included in flea medicine for dogs and one application should last up to 3 months.
If your pet has fleas, attack the entire problem to rid yourself of it. Treat your home and your yard, wash all your pet bedding in very hot water, buy the best flea medicine for dogs from a reliable online source and make fleas and flea dirt a think of the past for you and your dog.
This popular flea medicine for dogs is available without a prescription at prices that any dog owner can afford. Advantix Blue is a great product unless your dog is friends with a cat.
Ingredients in K9 Advantix can be harmful to cats if the cat is one that rubs against or grooms your dog. For homes where cats and dogs reside together, pet owners should choose Advantage, Frontline Plus or Revolution dog flea medicine.
Revolution for dogs is widely recommended by veterinarians and is a prescriptive flea medicine for dogs that also solves other health problems in canines. Revolution eliminates fleas while it also protects the animal from heartworm and other worm parasites. Revolution is approved by the FDA and is a systemic, broad spectrum parasiticide that has been shown to offer a high safety factor for canines.
Compared to other spot on flea products for dogs, Revolution is more costly than leading brands but adds the benefit of heartworm prevention that others lack.
Frontline Plus provides excellent flea killing properties with tick protection for dogs. In many areas of the country ticks are real problems especially in spring and fall. Ticks carry disease. Ticks are known to carry Lyme disease which afflicts humans but Lyme disease can also be spread to canines. Like fleas, ticks are dirty little insects that suck blood and not insects you care to have on your pup.
You may choose the option of orally administered dog flea medicines such as Program or Sentinel. These products prevent fleas from maturing but do not kill adult fleas present on the dog. They are not recommended for animals that suffer from flea allergies but are effective in interrupting the life stages of fleas to prevent the insects from maturing and reproducing. For dogs infested with fleas, owners may use the one dose Capstar in conjunction with one of the oral flea medicines to quickly kill off adult fleas.
For total protection from fleas, pet owners may need to take action over and above treating their dog. If a dog with fleas Is in your home you may need to kill fleas in your carpets, upholstery as well as thoroughly washing dog bedding and the area around the bedding.
If you live in states where fleas are active year round and climate is not cold enough to kill off the populations in the winter, you may want to treat your entire yard for fleas. The strong sprays meant to kill lawn insects are no longer available to home owners. The poisons in the sprays were great at killing fleas but poisonous to the environment.
Organic enthusiasts suggest sprinkling or spreading diatomaceous earth over your grass. This will not harm humans or pets but will kill fleas and other insects. It is definitely environmentally safe but you may need to re-spread this product every time you mow and most homeowners will not have the time or patience for this remedy.
Some professional pest control companies offer to spray your yard with chemicals such as Talstar or Demon WP which kill fleas as well as ticks, ants, roaches, spiders and other common bugs. These products contain growth regulators just as included in flea medicine for dogs and one application should last up to 3 months.
If your pet has fleas, attack the entire problem to rid yourself of it. Treat your home and your yard, wash all your pet bedding in very hot water, buy the best flea medicine for dogs from a reliable online source and make fleas and flea dirt a think of the past for you and your dog.
Best Quality Dog Foods - What Do You Need to Know
Affordable & timely certification. Free standards and information.
www.OneCert.net
SVZ: fruit & vegetables
Juices & juice concentrates, purees IQF, compounds, infused fruits
www.svz.com/products
Sorbic Acid Food Grade
Available from Baddley Chemicals, Baton Rouge, Louisiana
www.baddley.com/S/NF103.htm
Used refurbed Food M/c's
Good used food process machines 2nd hand m/c's for meat,cheese,fish
www.machines4food.co.uk
Meat Buyers Guide
Reliable Guidelines for Purchasing Beef, Lamb, Veal, Pork, and Poultry
shop.namp.com
Resistance Weld Monitor
Analyze any resistance welding process and verify weld quality.
www.weldcomputer.com
Quality Organic Dates
Dates available all year round. call toll free: 1-800-827-8017
oasisdategardens.com
Crystallized Ginger
Premium ginger ingredients for food and beverage manufacturers
www.gingerpeople.com
Biological Products
ISO Certified Company Into Quality Biological Products. Contact Us Now
www.titanbiotechltd.com
99% Calorie Free Drink
Enjoy Sugar Free D'Lite. Its fizzy Refreshing & has Electrolytes
www.SugarFreeDlite.com
Cinex Plastics Australia
High Barrier Sealable Food Trays Australian Made MAP Food Packaging
www.Cinex.com.au
Lycopene Supplements
Promotes Prostate, Cardiovascular and Vision Health. Finest Quality.
www.MyNutraMart.com
Find Importers and Buyers
Reliable Global Buyers.. Get Fresh Trade Leads. Contact Now!
Go4WorldBusiness.Com
Persian Cat Food?
Discover Best Cat Food For Persians Natural Cat Food Secrets Revealed
www.PersianCatsToday.com
Bulk Food Bins/Dispensers
Stylish & User-Friendly Gravity Bin Sure to Increase Sales & Profits
www.BestBins.net
Sirane Ltd
Absorbent Meat & Food Pads Market Leaders in Absorbent Pkg
www.sirane.co.uk
Simply Australian
For the taste & look of "downunder" Tim Tams, Vegemite, Rossi boots
www.simplyoz.com
Oxygen Absorbers
11 packet sizes from 20cc -2000cc Leader in technical support
www.sorbentsystems.com/Going on a search for the best quality dog foods has been a much bigger project than I initially imagined. I decided to start trying different dog foods after the ongoing concerns with the quality of dog foods and because our male Border Collie, Rodeo struggles with stomach problems and has joint issues. I wanted to make my own determinations on safety and quality on any dog food I choose to feed my loving pups Rodeo and Maddie and of course they were pretty sure they should have a say too.
It's probably worth mentioning that I have been in the dog business for over twenty years so I did have a pretty good idea of what I was looking for in a dog food. However, I was shocked at the lax regulations within the dog food industry. It is so easy for a food company to manipulate the information they put on the outside of their food package and then call it nutritious.
I was even more surprised to find that some of the so called quality foods that you would pay a hefty price for in the discount stores are actually not what they make themselves out to be! That's what those advertising dollars are paying for. Which leads me to my first big tip, throwing money at a high priced dog food does not make it a best quality dog food.
I started by properly learning how to read a dog food label. There are many tricks and frankly deceptive practices that make it a priority to learn how to read a label. Here is a shortened version of that process to help you get started. The first set of labeling rules comes from the FDA and must list the following information:
The product must be identified as a dog food
The weight, volume or count of the dog food
Name and location of the manufacturer
Listing of all ingredients by their common name
Listing of all ingredients in descending order by weight
The next agency that may be policing your dog food is the AAFCO or the Association of American Feed Control Officials. AAFCO is not a government agency like the FDA, instead its members are made up of state and federal employees from various agencies and employees from pet food companies. They have additional rules and label regulations on top of the FDA regulations for pet foods. However, dog food regulations vary from state to state and not all states agree to AAFCO regulations.
It's noteworthy that AAFCO statements only appear on commercial dog foods, which means the natural diets and homemade diets can not be compared using these standards.
With the dog food companies using adorable packaging with cute and catchy names, it's easy for them to imply that their food is made with good stuff and your dog's will love it. When in truth, they are hiding the poor quality of their food behind fancy advertising techniques. It's natural for us as consumers to gravitate toward the more attractive packaging, which is why it's important to learn how to read the label.
Confused already? Let me explain what I mean when I refer to some companies hiding the poor quality of their dog food. For starters, it's completely possible that you can purchase a beef dog food that may not actually contain any beef! The problem lies with the rules and regulations allowing the companies to hide poor food ingredients behind wording twist and with hidden meanings. Here are a few of the statements that are used on food labels that can be misleading:
With Chicken Flavor - Flavor is detectable but doesn't have to have any actual Chicken meant present in the product.
With Salmon - The product contains at least 3% salmon. So if you buy a product that says "now with real beef" it may only have 3% real beef in it!
Beef Dinner - The product must contain at least 25% Beef.
Liver For Dogs - At least 95% of the product must be liver or 70% including water
Along with the misleading phrases above, there are many other dog label statements that you will need to be wary of: Natural Food, Organic Food, Gourmet Food & Premium Food - A dog food can say "Organic" but it may not necessarily be 100% organic. You should also look for artificial flavors, calories, antioxidants as potential misleading ingredients and all of them vary between manufacturers and product lines.
It's also important to point out that ingredients are listed by weight but they are listed before they go through any processing. This gives manufacturers another way to pad their label. By listing the weight of the meat in it's hydrated state, it's obviously going to make it higher up on the label than the same ingredient after going through the dehydration process. In other words, the label is giving you the amount before processing in it's original form, not what you are actually getting after all of the moisture is removed during processing.
Watch for poor ingredients that have been split. For example, instead of using a whole grain such as rice, the manufacturer separates the grain into a lesser product such as rice bran and rice gluten. These are far inferior products.
So now you have a good idea of what not to include in your best quality dog foods so what rules should you follow when choosing a safe food?
Always read the label and if you have questions, ask them!
Make sure the first ingredient is a whole meat source such as salmon, chicken or lamb.
Absolutely NO protein or meat by-products like bone meal and meat meal.
Never buy anything that has leftover animal products from rendering plants.
Avoid low quality grains like corn or split grains like rice gluten that create an inferior product.
Use human grade foods or organic or natural - remember that these terms are not yet regulated.
Stay away from preservatives - a good rule is - if you can't pronounce it - leave it!
There is no need to choose foods that are too specific such as for a specific breed. They do not offer any great advantage and will likely cost your more money.
When you are searching for your best quality dog foods, make sure you choose more than one. Look for 3-5 quality foods that agree with your dog and offer different flavors and different protein or meat sources. This way your dog gets a change in variety and by feeding multiple food sources you help fill in nutritional gaps.
Once you know what to look for it's time to start sampling foods. There are lots of companies that offer free samples, so if you are interested in particular brands, give the company a call and usually they are glad to send out samples to a new potential customer.
Keep in mind that each dog is unique and no one food is right for every dog. While I think discussing your dog's diet with your vet is always a good idea, I'm a big fan of you, as a pet parent being the one to make those choices together with your dog. Why? Well, you know your dog better than anyone and you are the one to notice those little nuances like when they are not feeling well, or if they are hurt etc. So you will also be the one to know whether or not your dog likes or dislikes a new dog food and whether or not the new food agrees with your dog.
Keep a journal of what you fed your dog and how they liked it and if they had any problems. Make sure you don't mix foods and only feed them one at a time. Wait a few days in between switching foods or you will have a dog with a big tummy ache and you won't get an accurate read on whether or not they liked each food and how it agreed with them.
Don't let yourself become intimidated during this process. This is all about you making a life long healthy best quality food choice for your dog that is directly related to their daily health and their lifespan. Use the tips above and good old fashion common sense when making decisions. Don't be afraid to ask questions. Utilize forums, ask a vet online, your personal vet, a friend or you're always welcome to contact me through one of my contact forms.
As a pet parent, I want to emphasize the importance of choosing quality ingredients. Maddie and Rodeo are certain that it absolutely must taste good! Consider any additional personal health needs that your dog may have and start choosing a best quality dog food!
A few months ago I left the business world to pursue my passion of working with animals while trying to improve my health. To do this, I am using my 20+ years experience as a dog breeder and pet owner. I also worked for a well known veterinarian and national vet supply company for several years. I have a B.S. In Agriculture with an emphasis in Animal Science and Ag Business and I worked in the Agriculture Business Industry for over twenty years.
Once you have chosen the best quality dog food for your furry member of the family, make sure you take advantage of the convenience of shopping for your dog food online.
You will save time because we're all busy today, you can shop whenever it's convenient for you not just when the store is open, and you can take advantage of the outstanding online prices and coupons that are regularly available.
Most importantly, you have better things to do with your time - like playing with your dog!
www.OneCert.net
SVZ: fruit & vegetables
Juices & juice concentrates, purees IQF, compounds, infused fruits
www.svz.com/products
Sorbic Acid Food Grade
Available from Baddley Chemicals, Baton Rouge, Louisiana
www.baddley.com/S/NF103.htm
Used refurbed Food M/c's
Good used food process machines 2nd hand m/c's for meat,cheese,fish
www.machines4food.co.uk
Meat Buyers Guide
Reliable Guidelines for Purchasing Beef, Lamb, Veal, Pork, and Poultry
shop.namp.com
Resistance Weld Monitor
Analyze any resistance welding process and verify weld quality.
www.weldcomputer.com
Quality Organic Dates
Dates available all year round. call toll free: 1-800-827-8017
oasisdategardens.com
Crystallized Ginger
Premium ginger ingredients for food and beverage manufacturers
www.gingerpeople.com
Biological Products
ISO Certified Company Into Quality Biological Products. Contact Us Now
www.titanbiotechltd.com
99% Calorie Free Drink
Enjoy Sugar Free D'Lite. Its fizzy Refreshing & has Electrolytes
www.SugarFreeDlite.com
Cinex Plastics Australia
High Barrier Sealable Food Trays Australian Made MAP Food Packaging
www.Cinex.com.au
Lycopene Supplements
Promotes Prostate, Cardiovascular and Vision Health. Finest Quality.
www.MyNutraMart.com
Find Importers and Buyers
Reliable Global Buyers.. Get Fresh Trade Leads. Contact Now!
Go4WorldBusiness.Com
Persian Cat Food?
Discover Best Cat Food For Persians Natural Cat Food Secrets Revealed
www.PersianCatsToday.com
Bulk Food Bins/Dispensers
Stylish & User-Friendly Gravity Bin Sure to Increase Sales & Profits
www.BestBins.net
Sirane Ltd
Absorbent Meat & Food Pads Market Leaders in Absorbent Pkg
www.sirane.co.uk
Simply Australian
For the taste & look of "downunder" Tim Tams, Vegemite, Rossi boots
www.simplyoz.com
Oxygen Absorbers
11 packet sizes from 20cc -2000cc Leader in technical support
www.sorbentsystems.com/Going on a search for the best quality dog foods has been a much bigger project than I initially imagined. I decided to start trying different dog foods after the ongoing concerns with the quality of dog foods and because our male Border Collie, Rodeo struggles with stomach problems and has joint issues. I wanted to make my own determinations on safety and quality on any dog food I choose to feed my loving pups Rodeo and Maddie and of course they were pretty sure they should have a say too.
It's probably worth mentioning that I have been in the dog business for over twenty years so I did have a pretty good idea of what I was looking for in a dog food. However, I was shocked at the lax regulations within the dog food industry. It is so easy for a food company to manipulate the information they put on the outside of their food package and then call it nutritious.
I was even more surprised to find that some of the so called quality foods that you would pay a hefty price for in the discount stores are actually not what they make themselves out to be! That's what those advertising dollars are paying for. Which leads me to my first big tip, throwing money at a high priced dog food does not make it a best quality dog food.
I started by properly learning how to read a dog food label. There are many tricks and frankly deceptive practices that make it a priority to learn how to read a label. Here is a shortened version of that process to help you get started. The first set of labeling rules comes from the FDA and must list the following information:
The product must be identified as a dog food
The weight, volume or count of the dog food
Name and location of the manufacturer
Listing of all ingredients by their common name
Listing of all ingredients in descending order by weight
The next agency that may be policing your dog food is the AAFCO or the Association of American Feed Control Officials. AAFCO is not a government agency like the FDA, instead its members are made up of state and federal employees from various agencies and employees from pet food companies. They have additional rules and label regulations on top of the FDA regulations for pet foods. However, dog food regulations vary from state to state and not all states agree to AAFCO regulations.
It's noteworthy that AAFCO statements only appear on commercial dog foods, which means the natural diets and homemade diets can not be compared using these standards.
With the dog food companies using adorable packaging with cute and catchy names, it's easy for them to imply that their food is made with good stuff and your dog's will love it. When in truth, they are hiding the poor quality of their food behind fancy advertising techniques. It's natural for us as consumers to gravitate toward the more attractive packaging, which is why it's important to learn how to read the label.
Confused already? Let me explain what I mean when I refer to some companies hiding the poor quality of their dog food. For starters, it's completely possible that you can purchase a beef dog food that may not actually contain any beef! The problem lies with the rules and regulations allowing the companies to hide poor food ingredients behind wording twist and with hidden meanings. Here are a few of the statements that are used on food labels that can be misleading:
With Chicken Flavor - Flavor is detectable but doesn't have to have any actual Chicken meant present in the product.
With Salmon - The product contains at least 3% salmon. So if you buy a product that says "now with real beef" it may only have 3% real beef in it!
Beef Dinner - The product must contain at least 25% Beef.
Liver For Dogs - At least 95% of the product must be liver or 70% including water
Along with the misleading phrases above, there are many other dog label statements that you will need to be wary of: Natural Food, Organic Food, Gourmet Food & Premium Food - A dog food can say "Organic" but it may not necessarily be 100% organic. You should also look for artificial flavors, calories, antioxidants as potential misleading ingredients and all of them vary between manufacturers and product lines.
It's also important to point out that ingredients are listed by weight but they are listed before they go through any processing. This gives manufacturers another way to pad their label. By listing the weight of the meat in it's hydrated state, it's obviously going to make it higher up on the label than the same ingredient after going through the dehydration process. In other words, the label is giving you the amount before processing in it's original form, not what you are actually getting after all of the moisture is removed during processing.
Watch for poor ingredients that have been split. For example, instead of using a whole grain such as rice, the manufacturer separates the grain into a lesser product such as rice bran and rice gluten. These are far inferior products.
So now you have a good idea of what not to include in your best quality dog foods so what rules should you follow when choosing a safe food?
Always read the label and if you have questions, ask them!
Make sure the first ingredient is a whole meat source such as salmon, chicken or lamb.
Absolutely NO protein or meat by-products like bone meal and meat meal.
Never buy anything that has leftover animal products from rendering plants.
Avoid low quality grains like corn or split grains like rice gluten that create an inferior product.
Use human grade foods or organic or natural - remember that these terms are not yet regulated.
Stay away from preservatives - a good rule is - if you can't pronounce it - leave it!
There is no need to choose foods that are too specific such as for a specific breed. They do not offer any great advantage and will likely cost your more money.
When you are searching for your best quality dog foods, make sure you choose more than one. Look for 3-5 quality foods that agree with your dog and offer different flavors and different protein or meat sources. This way your dog gets a change in variety and by feeding multiple food sources you help fill in nutritional gaps.
Once you know what to look for it's time to start sampling foods. There are lots of companies that offer free samples, so if you are interested in particular brands, give the company a call and usually they are glad to send out samples to a new potential customer.
Keep in mind that each dog is unique and no one food is right for every dog. While I think discussing your dog's diet with your vet is always a good idea, I'm a big fan of you, as a pet parent being the one to make those choices together with your dog. Why? Well, you know your dog better than anyone and you are the one to notice those little nuances like when they are not feeling well, or if they are hurt etc. So you will also be the one to know whether or not your dog likes or dislikes a new dog food and whether or not the new food agrees with your dog.
Keep a journal of what you fed your dog and how they liked it and if they had any problems. Make sure you don't mix foods and only feed them one at a time. Wait a few days in between switching foods or you will have a dog with a big tummy ache and you won't get an accurate read on whether or not they liked each food and how it agreed with them.
Don't let yourself become intimidated during this process. This is all about you making a life long healthy best quality food choice for your dog that is directly related to their daily health and their lifespan. Use the tips above and good old fashion common sense when making decisions. Don't be afraid to ask questions. Utilize forums, ask a vet online, your personal vet, a friend or you're always welcome to contact me through one of my contact forms.
As a pet parent, I want to emphasize the importance of choosing quality ingredients. Maddie and Rodeo are certain that it absolutely must taste good! Consider any additional personal health needs that your dog may have and start choosing a best quality dog food!
A few months ago I left the business world to pursue my passion of working with animals while trying to improve my health. To do this, I am using my 20+ years experience as a dog breeder and pet owner. I also worked for a well known veterinarian and national vet supply company for several years. I have a B.S. In Agriculture with an emphasis in Animal Science and Ag Business and I worked in the Agriculture Business Industry for over twenty years.
Once you have chosen the best quality dog food for your furry member of the family, make sure you take advantage of the convenience of shopping for your dog food online.
You will save time because we're all busy today, you can shop whenever it's convenient for you not just when the store is open, and you can take advantage of the outstanding online prices and coupons that are regularly available.
Most importantly, you have better things to do with your time - like playing with your dog!
Training Discussion
Having decided to have a pet dog in the family you must realize the importance of learning about the best way to train it so that your dog will fit in well with the family and become a valued friend.
Before you start house training your puppy, you must have a good understanding of what the pup will need. This will depend upon its breed. You should also learn about its parentage and the stock it comes from.
It is necessary that you choose a training program that will work well for you and your puppy. There are several good ways to train a puppy and you should select one of these that will suit you and the breed of your puppy. You must also decide on what tools you will employ when you house train your puppy.
Teaching your pup to obey you is the first thing it should learn when you house train it. It is essential that before everything else, it is taught obedience to commands.
You may use one of these two methods, depending on your preference, and the breed of the dog, to teach your pup to obey commands. These are leash training or reward training.
Leash training works best for some breeds of dogs such as Alsatians and German Shepherds.
If want your puppy to be a guard dog, then leash training will be the best way to teach it to obey command. In any case, teaching obedience to your pup will be demanding work and you will need to be very patient. You should also be careful in choosing the right aids to train your dog.
Generally, leashes and dog collars are used when training puppies. Leashes should always use by hand. A puppy on leash should be always supervised, whether the leash is held in the hand or the puppy is tied to a post.
A hand- held leash has to be managed by physical effort. This will not be easy on the master and the dog under training
Both types of leashes produce a big problem. Puppies on leash feel that they are restricted in their movements. This makes them cantankerous, and struggles to be free.
It would therefore be better if you fit the puppy with a collar. A collar would give the puppy unrestricted movement. There is, however, the danger that they may run out to the road and meet with a horrible accident.
For this reason, people prefer to fit their dogs with electronic or battery operated collars.
Electronic collars are designed to give mild shocks that make the dogs uncomfortable enough to stop whatever they are doing.
Electronic collars are generally powered by batteries and they can be operated from a distance. When your dog is not to be seen near your house, you can just signal it with your remote control and get it to return home. It would prefer to obey your signal rather than endure uncomfortable shocks.
Before you start house training your puppy, you must have a good understanding of what the pup will need. This will depend upon its breed. You should also learn about its parentage and the stock it comes from.
It is necessary that you choose a training program that will work well for you and your puppy. There are several good ways to train a puppy and you should select one of these that will suit you and the breed of your puppy. You must also decide on what tools you will employ when you house train your puppy.
Teaching your pup to obey you is the first thing it should learn when you house train it. It is essential that before everything else, it is taught obedience to commands.
You may use one of these two methods, depending on your preference, and the breed of the dog, to teach your pup to obey commands. These are leash training or reward training.
Leash training works best for some breeds of dogs such as Alsatians and German Shepherds.
If want your puppy to be a guard dog, then leash training will be the best way to teach it to obey command. In any case, teaching obedience to your pup will be demanding work and you will need to be very patient. You should also be careful in choosing the right aids to train your dog.
Generally, leashes and dog collars are used when training puppies. Leashes should always use by hand. A puppy on leash should be always supervised, whether the leash is held in the hand or the puppy is tied to a post.
A hand- held leash has to be managed by physical effort. This will not be easy on the master and the dog under training
Both types of leashes produce a big problem. Puppies on leash feel that they are restricted in their movements. This makes them cantankerous, and struggles to be free.
It would therefore be better if you fit the puppy with a collar. A collar would give the puppy unrestricted movement. There is, however, the danger that they may run out to the road and meet with a horrible accident.
For this reason, people prefer to fit their dogs with electronic or battery operated collars.
Electronic collars are designed to give mild shocks that make the dogs uncomfortable enough to stop whatever they are doing.
Electronic collars are generally powered by batteries and they can be operated from a distance. When your dog is not to be seen near your house, you can just signal it with your remote control and get it to return home. It would prefer to obey your signal rather than endure uncomfortable shocks.
Dog - Learn to Put an End to Them
Dog behavior problems usually begin at a very young age. If not corrected, the situations can easily get out of control. The key to a happy coexistence with your pet may be a few simple training sessions. However, if you don't learn to put an end to certain behaviors, your life together could be quite stressful.
There are many different types of training available for dog owners. From spray bottles and clickers to treats and training collars, you will find the options are many. If you are unsure of which method will work on your dog, consult the advice of a professional dog trainer. By thoroughly researching, you will be able to find a solution that is going to enhance how quickly your dog learns and put an end to the dog behavior problems.
Once you have chosen the method you are going to use, you have to make your dog understand that their training is not an option. While you want to reward the dog for good behavior with treats and kind words, totally ignoring a dog's bad behavior is not going to make them understand that they must behave well. Instead, be sure you learn the proper way to discipline your dog by using the right tone of voice.
Along with making the training mandatory, you need to make your dog's training sessions fun for them. Giving them the extra attention may be all that it takes. However, some dogs need and want more action in their training. Combine the training with the activities your dog enjoys, such as long walk or run, and you will find your dog is more willing to learn the right behaviors.
Unfortunately, when dog behavior problems arise, they are often ignored. This can lead to the dog owner thinking there is no way their dog is ever going to behave and they often give up on the dog and some even end up in new homes. Instead of giving away your canine friend, learn how to put an end to their bad behavior. It might take some time to correct them, but once you do, you and your dog will be much happier.
There are many different types of training available for dog owners. From spray bottles and clickers to treats and training collars, you will find the options are many. If you are unsure of which method will work on your dog, consult the advice of a professional dog trainer. By thoroughly researching, you will be able to find a solution that is going to enhance how quickly your dog learns and put an end to the dog behavior problems.
Once you have chosen the method you are going to use, you have to make your dog understand that their training is not an option. While you want to reward the dog for good behavior with treats and kind words, totally ignoring a dog's bad behavior is not going to make them understand that they must behave well. Instead, be sure you learn the proper way to discipline your dog by using the right tone of voice.
Along with making the training mandatory, you need to make your dog's training sessions fun for them. Giving them the extra attention may be all that it takes. However, some dogs need and want more action in their training. Combine the training with the activities your dog enjoys, such as long walk or run, and you will find your dog is more willing to learn the right behaviors.
Unfortunately, when dog behavior problems arise, they are often ignored. This can lead to the dog owner thinking there is no way their dog is ever going to behave and they often give up on the dog and some even end up in new homes. Instead of giving away your canine friend, learn how to put an end to their bad behavior. It might take some time to correct them, but once you do, you and your dog will be much happier.
Thursday, May 27, 2010
Training Horses
Your horse or pony can use his legs in different ways so that he can move forward to walk, or trot or canter, or gallop. The walk, the trot, the canter and the gallop are all gaits or paces. Each horses gait or pace has a different number of beats in the rhythm, just like in music. Do you play music or know someone who is musical? The rhythm of each pace can be fast or slow. So you and your pony can work together finding out the speed that suits you both in each pace. Often the walk is the slowest pace, then the trot, then the canter and then the gallop. Though there are some horses that can canter slower than they trot. Can you do that with your pony?!
The Horses Walk: has a four-beat rhythm. One, two, three, four. So, that is each leg goes forward one at time. But in what order do the legs go so he does not get all tangled up?! He puts a hind leg forward, followed by the front leg on the same side. Then comes the hind leg on the other side and the front leg on that side. Then start all over again. So it could be - nearside hind leg, nearside foreleg, offside hind leg, offside foreleg. If it is safe while you are riding, put one hand on your horses rump. Can you feel your pony's rump come up and down in rhythm with his walk?
The Horses Trot: has a two-beat rhythm. That should be easy to work out. Two beats and four legs so it must be two legs at a time. But which two legs are together?! The diagonal pair of legs go forward together - one front leg and the back leg on the other side of the body e.g. nearside foreleg and offside hind leg. The pairs of legs in trot are easy to see when you are watching your pony trot rather than when you riding. Get two brightly coloured bandages and wrap on the diagonal legs to help you see the pairs moving together. Do this with a friend and take turns watching and riding. Or ask someone to take a video when you are riding and watch it in slow motion!
The Horses Canter: has a three-beat rhythm. Wow, walking in four beats is easy to work out, trotting in two beats a little harder, now the canter is in three beats. How is that possible? Think of it as - the walk and trot are even and best designed to go straight, the canter is a bit 'one-sided' and best designed for circles and going around corners! So that means there is a left-hand canter and a right-hand canter.
The beat starts with a back leg. Think of the back leg on the opposite side of the direction you have chosen for your circle. Then the other hind and its diagonal fore move forward together. These are the same diagonal pair that move together in the trot. Then there is one foreleg remaining so it moves next to complete that stride. A 'stride' is a complete set of the three beats followed by a 'moment of suspension' before starting the next stride. Did you know that having this moment of suspension makes it really easy for your pony to change from say a left-hand canter to a right-hand canter!
So, a left hand canter is where the nearside foreleg is 'leading'. You can see this when watching your pony from the ground. The leading leg comes more forward each time he takes another stride. Think of it as - offside hind leg, then nearside hind leg and offside foreleg together as a diagonal pair, followed by the nearside foreleg.
Of course, you can use the left-hand canter or the right-hand canter to go straight. And believe it or not, you can go to the right using the left-hand canter and go to the left using the right-hand canter!
The Horses Gallop: has a four-beat rhythm. It is a fast pace! Make sure that you can manage your pony in walk, trot and canter before gallop. The diagonal pair of legs that stay together in canter become separate in the gallop. So the left hand canter as described above becomes - offside hind leg, then nearside hind leg, then offside foreleg followed by the nearside foreleg.
Can you remember?!
How many beats for each of the paces:
Canter
Walk
Gallop
Trot
The Horses Walk: has a four-beat rhythm. One, two, three, four. So, that is each leg goes forward one at time. But in what order do the legs go so he does not get all tangled up?! He puts a hind leg forward, followed by the front leg on the same side. Then comes the hind leg on the other side and the front leg on that side. Then start all over again. So it could be - nearside hind leg, nearside foreleg, offside hind leg, offside foreleg. If it is safe while you are riding, put one hand on your horses rump. Can you feel your pony's rump come up and down in rhythm with his walk?
The Horses Trot: has a two-beat rhythm. That should be easy to work out. Two beats and four legs so it must be two legs at a time. But which two legs are together?! The diagonal pair of legs go forward together - one front leg and the back leg on the other side of the body e.g. nearside foreleg and offside hind leg. The pairs of legs in trot are easy to see when you are watching your pony trot rather than when you riding. Get two brightly coloured bandages and wrap on the diagonal legs to help you see the pairs moving together. Do this with a friend and take turns watching and riding. Or ask someone to take a video when you are riding and watch it in slow motion!
The Horses Canter: has a three-beat rhythm. Wow, walking in four beats is easy to work out, trotting in two beats a little harder, now the canter is in three beats. How is that possible? Think of it as - the walk and trot are even and best designed to go straight, the canter is a bit 'one-sided' and best designed for circles and going around corners! So that means there is a left-hand canter and a right-hand canter.
The beat starts with a back leg. Think of the back leg on the opposite side of the direction you have chosen for your circle. Then the other hind and its diagonal fore move forward together. These are the same diagonal pair that move together in the trot. Then there is one foreleg remaining so it moves next to complete that stride. A 'stride' is a complete set of the three beats followed by a 'moment of suspension' before starting the next stride. Did you know that having this moment of suspension makes it really easy for your pony to change from say a left-hand canter to a right-hand canter!
So, a left hand canter is where the nearside foreleg is 'leading'. You can see this when watching your pony from the ground. The leading leg comes more forward each time he takes another stride. Think of it as - offside hind leg, then nearside hind leg and offside foreleg together as a diagonal pair, followed by the nearside foreleg.
Of course, you can use the left-hand canter or the right-hand canter to go straight. And believe it or not, you can go to the right using the left-hand canter and go to the left using the right-hand canter!
The Horses Gallop: has a four-beat rhythm. It is a fast pace! Make sure that you can manage your pony in walk, trot and canter before gallop. The diagonal pair of legs that stay together in canter become separate in the gallop. So the left hand canter as described above becomes - offside hind leg, then nearside hind leg, then offside foreleg followed by the nearside foreleg.
Can you remember?!
How many beats for each of the paces:
Canter
Walk
Gallop
Trot
Tips for brginning horse training
Horses are very useful and trainable animals. They can me used for a limitless variety of tasks such as farming, sports, recreation, and even warfare. Their tremendous strength and endurance are very valuable attributes. Not only are they gifted with tremendous physical qualities but they are also intelligent and very receptive to human commands. Beginner horse training can be fun for both you and your equine companion. There are many different types of horse training techniques, so make sure you are knowledgeable about whatever you choose to apply.
Horses can even be trained in specialized tasks and they thrive in any work they are assigned to do. They can do police work, and they can also be graceful animals for royalty and equestrian activities. They can also be used on farms and in the wilderness. Horses are incredibly versatile animals. They are functional as well as exquisite. Not to mention the fact that they love to please.
However, training a horse can be a real challenge especially for beginners and new horse owners. First and foremost, to be able to train a horse well, the individual must understand how the horse thinks and always -- I mean always -- consider the animal's instincts! As animals, instincts always reign above any training or conditioning. Having said that, a horse can be trained quickly and easily when you understand their innate behavior and work with the animal to achieve the desired success. Here are a few tips to help your beginner horse training to move along more smoothly.
1. Horses are fearful creatures
By instinct of preservation, horses are naturally fearful creatures. Because they are a prey animal, they may exhibit reservation with other animals and people in new situations. If the horse doesn't know you, it will judge you based on your actions, before finally deciding that you are not someone with bad intentions. It bases its decisions on your body language and believe it or not, your thoughts, and will respond accordingly based on what it perceives. The horse will either flee, embrace your friendship or study you further.
2. Gradual training is essential
One must understand that it takes a while for horses to warm up. Training often needs to be a gradual process. You must learn how to tame the horse correctly and effectively. Like dogs, horses must see its trainer as its leader -- gender is rarely an issue. It should be noted that some horses are natural leaders, therefore, dominant. If you own one with such characteristic, training can be a bit tougher. Make sure you are asserting dominance at all times. Tough love can be the best thing for both of you till you structure the pecking order of the "herd".
3. Horses are herd animals
Horses are herd animals and they naturally function in this manner. They will always want someone to lead them. Remember to speak their language in your training. This will speed up the process immensely. Do your own due diligence on the language of equus and natural horsemanship.
4. Riding the horse is not the first step
Before actually riding the horse, you must do some ground work and training. There is no shortcut especially for beginners. Longing and bending is a must at first. Teach commands while longing before putting your rear on the saddle. A horse must be body-aware and desensitized. If you want to get bucked off, skip your groundwork.
5. Proper manners on lead
Lead training is absolutely necessary. A horse MUST display manners with humans on the ground. Teach the horse to walk beside on a lead while giving it basic commands like to turn or stop. Some horses will test your dominance during lead training. It is vital to let the animal know who's boss.
6. Warm-up the horse before riding
Even with a horse that is already trained, it is still advisable to warm-up your horse physically and mentally before riding it. Do a bit of longing or some exercises in groundword, so the animal will know what to expect.
7. Cooling the animal off
Training sessions must end with a cool down period. Just as with a primed athlete, the animal must be give a chance to settle his muscles. Let the animal relax and wind down. A tired and frustrated horse is very difficult to train. As a rule of the thumb, make every training session a pleasant experience for the horse, always ending on a good note and before the animal has a chance to loose interest. The animal will be happy to learn and do some training again when it knows that the experience is worthwhile. Remember.... Positive reinforcement is a crucial key to success.
Horses can even be trained in specialized tasks and they thrive in any work they are assigned to do. They can do police work, and they can also be graceful animals for royalty and equestrian activities. They can also be used on farms and in the wilderness. Horses are incredibly versatile animals. They are functional as well as exquisite. Not to mention the fact that they love to please.
However, training a horse can be a real challenge especially for beginners and new horse owners. First and foremost, to be able to train a horse well, the individual must understand how the horse thinks and always -- I mean always -- consider the animal's instincts! As animals, instincts always reign above any training or conditioning. Having said that, a horse can be trained quickly and easily when you understand their innate behavior and work with the animal to achieve the desired success. Here are a few tips to help your beginner horse training to move along more smoothly.
1. Horses are fearful creatures
By instinct of preservation, horses are naturally fearful creatures. Because they are a prey animal, they may exhibit reservation with other animals and people in new situations. If the horse doesn't know you, it will judge you based on your actions, before finally deciding that you are not someone with bad intentions. It bases its decisions on your body language and believe it or not, your thoughts, and will respond accordingly based on what it perceives. The horse will either flee, embrace your friendship or study you further.
2. Gradual training is essential
One must understand that it takes a while for horses to warm up. Training often needs to be a gradual process. You must learn how to tame the horse correctly and effectively. Like dogs, horses must see its trainer as its leader -- gender is rarely an issue. It should be noted that some horses are natural leaders, therefore, dominant. If you own one with such characteristic, training can be a bit tougher. Make sure you are asserting dominance at all times. Tough love can be the best thing for both of you till you structure the pecking order of the "herd".
3. Horses are herd animals
Horses are herd animals and they naturally function in this manner. They will always want someone to lead them. Remember to speak their language in your training. This will speed up the process immensely. Do your own due diligence on the language of equus and natural horsemanship.
4. Riding the horse is not the first step
Before actually riding the horse, you must do some ground work and training. There is no shortcut especially for beginners. Longing and bending is a must at first. Teach commands while longing before putting your rear on the saddle. A horse must be body-aware and desensitized. If you want to get bucked off, skip your groundwork.
5. Proper manners on lead
Lead training is absolutely necessary. A horse MUST display manners with humans on the ground. Teach the horse to walk beside on a lead while giving it basic commands like to turn or stop. Some horses will test your dominance during lead training. It is vital to let the animal know who's boss.
6. Warm-up the horse before riding
Even with a horse that is already trained, it is still advisable to warm-up your horse physically and mentally before riding it. Do a bit of longing or some exercises in groundword, so the animal will know what to expect.
7. Cooling the animal off
Training sessions must end with a cool down period. Just as with a primed athlete, the animal must be give a chance to settle his muscles. Let the animal relax and wind down. A tired and frustrated horse is very difficult to train. As a rule of the thumb, make every training session a pleasant experience for the horse, always ending on a good note and before the animal has a chance to loose interest. The animal will be happy to learn and do some training again when it knows that the experience is worthwhile. Remember.... Positive reinforcement is a crucial key to success.
Why Shouldn't I Feed My Horse by Hand
I know...It is such fun to give your horse a treat from your hand. It seems harmless, as long as you're careful, right?
Well, yes, you can feed your horse from your hand fairly safely, without getting bitten...most of the time. However, getting your hand or fingers accidentally bitten while you are feeding him is simply the beginning.
When you start giving your horse treats by hand, he will start to look for it, even when you don't have any treats. Then, when you put your hand near his face for any reason (let's say you're putting his halter or bridle on), he might start to nip at your hand, not trying to bite you - but trying to find the treat. If you had been hiding the treats in your pocket, he may even start nosing into your pocket and push you around a little bit. This can be the beginning of your horse not respecting you or your space. This is definitely something that you don't want.
(By the way, there's nothing worse than a horse who doesn't respect you. He can start to be pushy, nippy, and even crabby. I've seen a number of people who've lost their horse's respect, but they don't even know it. When you're leading your horse, and he bumps into you, that's disrespect. If you're dragging him behind you, that's disrespect. If he's dragging you behind him, that's disrespect!)
It's easier to earn a horse's respect right from the beginning than it is to try to gain respect from your horse after you've lost it.
So, to avoid this problem, I suggest putting the treats in a bucket or on the ground. This will allow you to reward your horse w/out promoting bad habits.
Well, yes, you can feed your horse from your hand fairly safely, without getting bitten...most of the time. However, getting your hand or fingers accidentally bitten while you are feeding him is simply the beginning.
When you start giving your horse treats by hand, he will start to look for it, even when you don't have any treats. Then, when you put your hand near his face for any reason (let's say you're putting his halter or bridle on), he might start to nip at your hand, not trying to bite you - but trying to find the treat. If you had been hiding the treats in your pocket, he may even start nosing into your pocket and push you around a little bit. This can be the beginning of your horse not respecting you or your space. This is definitely something that you don't want.
(By the way, there's nothing worse than a horse who doesn't respect you. He can start to be pushy, nippy, and even crabby. I've seen a number of people who've lost their horse's respect, but they don't even know it. When you're leading your horse, and he bumps into you, that's disrespect. If you're dragging him behind you, that's disrespect. If he's dragging you behind him, that's disrespect!)
It's easier to earn a horse's respect right from the beginning than it is to try to gain respect from your horse after you've lost it.
So, to avoid this problem, I suggest putting the treats in a bucket or on the ground. This will allow you to reward your horse w/out promoting bad habits.
Horseback Riding
Would you like to learn how to ride a horse? People sometimes think it's a matter of siting still in the saddle and steering with the reins like they're driving a car, but it actually takes skill and practice.
In order to have a smooth, pleasurable ride, both horse and rider must be in sync. Rather than just sitting there, when you're riding you need to follow the motion of the horse's body, with your balance centered. Otherwise you'll end up gripping the horse's sides with your thighs and clinging on with your calves, with your heels up and your toes pointing toward the ground.
Not only will this unbalance the horse, he won't have much trust in you while you're on his back. A rider's lack of balance will affect your riding in these ways:
- If you're off balance, you'll fall behind the horse's motion and you'll both feel like you're bouncing all over the place.
- If you lean forward, your center of gravity will be over the horses withers and this will throw both of you off... and if he stops suddenly you may find yourself on the ground.
- If you put too much weight on one side, you'll throw your horse way off and you could actually fall off sideways if he decides to go in the other direction.
When you're off balance, the horse will feel uncomfortable and will try to adjust himself to keep you centered. Some horses can cope with this; others get upset by it and may speed up, moving faster because they are trying to escape the problem. Others may get so confused they stop dead in their tracks. Don't blame the horse if any of these things happen... it's your responsibility to ride correctly.
If you are having difficulty with your horse, always look to yourself and your riding habits first. You may want to ask someone to film you while you're riding, so you can see how you are sitting the horse. It's a always a good idea to take a few lessons and get help with your riding. You and your horse will enjoy your time together much more if you're both comfortable and in balance.
In order to have a smooth, pleasurable ride, both horse and rider must be in sync. Rather than just sitting there, when you're riding you need to follow the motion of the horse's body, with your balance centered. Otherwise you'll end up gripping the horse's sides with your thighs and clinging on with your calves, with your heels up and your toes pointing toward the ground.
Not only will this unbalance the horse, he won't have much trust in you while you're on his back. A rider's lack of balance will affect your riding in these ways:
- If you're off balance, you'll fall behind the horse's motion and you'll both feel like you're bouncing all over the place.
- If you lean forward, your center of gravity will be over the horses withers and this will throw both of you off... and if he stops suddenly you may find yourself on the ground.
- If you put too much weight on one side, you'll throw your horse way off and you could actually fall off sideways if he decides to go in the other direction.
When you're off balance, the horse will feel uncomfortable and will try to adjust himself to keep you centered. Some horses can cope with this; others get upset by it and may speed up, moving faster because they are trying to escape the problem. Others may get so confused they stop dead in their tracks. Don't blame the horse if any of these things happen... it's your responsibility to ride correctly.
If you are having difficulty with your horse, always look to yourself and your riding habits first. You may want to ask someone to film you while you're riding, so you can see how you are sitting the horse. It's a always a good idea to take a few lessons and get help with your riding. You and your horse will enjoy your time together much more if you're both comfortable and in balance.
How can I catch my horse
If you are one of those owners who owns a horse that has developed the idea that quality time spent involves the owner lovingly chasing after it whilst it playfully avoids being caught. We know your pain.
There is nothing more frustrating than having to wander after your horse in the attempt of catching it. Spending most of your time out in the paddock instead of out riding with friends.
However the correction of this is not as simple as we would like it to be. Placing a horse in a smaller paddock or leaving a halter on will not always make matters better, the same as locking a horse up in a stable could lead it to kicking.
The unwillingness to be caught is a vice the same as any other developed or acquired vices a horse may develop. It has a cause and often runs hand in hand with two other bad habits.
These being the likely hood of bolting and the unresponsive horse. It is very rarely that a well-behaved and responsive horse will run off when it is time to work.
We explored ways of correcting these problems as well as how to get your horse to be more willing to be caught.
A horse turning tail and heading for the far side of a paddock is the first warning that somewhere something in its basic training seriously went wrong. It now associates the human with bad or often painful experiences. The first step to take is to change your horses routine, no riding for a few days, place the horse on three meals a day (divide daily ration into three) and bring it in for lunch, it will soon enough realize that there is food involved. If needed take your horses' friend or companion in as well. This way your horse will not necessarily associate mid day captures with riding. Also capturing your horse mid morning and moving it to another pasture with "better" grazing will help, as your horse will not always associate being caught with work and punishment.
Learn too approach your horse with a less demanding front. Just walk up to it and spend some time with it, approach the shoulder and not the head. By showing your horse you are not out to get it every time you see it goes a long way to developing a relaxed relationship.
Most horses that run off know only frustration and often anger when they are finally caught. Show your horse you can be a nice person by taking it a snack and walking off. It will soon start looking out for you and often may even start following you. Horses want calm and confidant owners and riders.
Once the horse is more willing to be caught a handful of food in a manger will suffice in keeping it happy. (Bribery works)
Horses prone to being irritated or bolting off whilst ridden usually require a lot more work than a simple change of routine. Please do not confuse irritation under saddle with a hot horse. A hot horse is willing to work, it responds and will listen and conserve its energy for when it is needed. An irritated horse is unlikely to stand still or respond to aids when asked, an irritated horse will also run through aids and is less likely to balance itself or its rider. These two are often confused.
A bolting or irritated horse associates pain and punishment with work and therefore has no interest in responding positively to a riders aids. These horses require patience and experience. All to often they are bitted up in an attempt to slow them down when in fact they require the opposite. Bitted down and schooled with patience without a whip. These horses are often sold as horses for competent and experienced riders and often marketed cheaper than their actual worth.
Horses who do little or are unresponsive under saddle, and are difficult to catch are often overworked. They know there is work to be done and will avoid it at all costs. And when ridden will drag their toes or shuffle about. These horses require a change of workload or alternatively a holiday turned out in a pasture for a month or so with younger horses (visit him or her everyday with a treat) He or she needs to learn how to become a horse again. Its workload needs adjusting with some variation included.
Catching an unwilling horse often means working at eliminating the cause. And horses that are unwilling to be caught, have issues that need to be resolved, before positive results will be seen.
There is nothing more frustrating than having to wander after your horse in the attempt of catching it. Spending most of your time out in the paddock instead of out riding with friends.
However the correction of this is not as simple as we would like it to be. Placing a horse in a smaller paddock or leaving a halter on will not always make matters better, the same as locking a horse up in a stable could lead it to kicking.
The unwillingness to be caught is a vice the same as any other developed or acquired vices a horse may develop. It has a cause and often runs hand in hand with two other bad habits.
These being the likely hood of bolting and the unresponsive horse. It is very rarely that a well-behaved and responsive horse will run off when it is time to work.
We explored ways of correcting these problems as well as how to get your horse to be more willing to be caught.
A horse turning tail and heading for the far side of a paddock is the first warning that somewhere something in its basic training seriously went wrong. It now associates the human with bad or often painful experiences. The first step to take is to change your horses routine, no riding for a few days, place the horse on three meals a day (divide daily ration into three) and bring it in for lunch, it will soon enough realize that there is food involved. If needed take your horses' friend or companion in as well. This way your horse will not necessarily associate mid day captures with riding. Also capturing your horse mid morning and moving it to another pasture with "better" grazing will help, as your horse will not always associate being caught with work and punishment.
Learn too approach your horse with a less demanding front. Just walk up to it and spend some time with it, approach the shoulder and not the head. By showing your horse you are not out to get it every time you see it goes a long way to developing a relaxed relationship.
Most horses that run off know only frustration and often anger when they are finally caught. Show your horse you can be a nice person by taking it a snack and walking off. It will soon start looking out for you and often may even start following you. Horses want calm and confidant owners and riders.
Once the horse is more willing to be caught a handful of food in a manger will suffice in keeping it happy. (Bribery works)
Horses prone to being irritated or bolting off whilst ridden usually require a lot more work than a simple change of routine. Please do not confuse irritation under saddle with a hot horse. A hot horse is willing to work, it responds and will listen and conserve its energy for when it is needed. An irritated horse is unlikely to stand still or respond to aids when asked, an irritated horse will also run through aids and is less likely to balance itself or its rider. These two are often confused.
A bolting or irritated horse associates pain and punishment with work and therefore has no interest in responding positively to a riders aids. These horses require patience and experience. All to often they are bitted up in an attempt to slow them down when in fact they require the opposite. Bitted down and schooled with patience without a whip. These horses are often sold as horses for competent and experienced riders and often marketed cheaper than their actual worth.
Horses who do little or are unresponsive under saddle, and are difficult to catch are often overworked. They know there is work to be done and will avoid it at all costs. And when ridden will drag their toes or shuffle about. These horses require a change of workload or alternatively a holiday turned out in a pasture for a month or so with younger horses (visit him or her everyday with a treat) He or she needs to learn how to become a horse again. Its workload needs adjusting with some variation included.
Catching an unwilling horse often means working at eliminating the cause. And horses that are unwilling to be caught, have issues that need to be resolved, before positive results will be seen.
Teaching Proper Equine Ground Manners
One of the most basic skills one must possess to be able to break or interact with horses is teaching a horse ground manners. Because most horses outweigh the handler by 4 or 5 times a rude horse can be a very dangerous thing. Having ground manners means that the horse respects your personal area and vice versa. Without mutual respect you will not have a pleasant experience with horses.
Because horses are naturally fleeing animals it is not an intelligent idea to be loud and obnoxious around them. Making fast movements around a horse's head will most definitely spook it, as well as slapping them or sudden loud noises will also have that same affect. For a horse to develop good ground manners you must start working with them soon after they are born. Rubbing all over their bodies and leading them around by a halter and lead rope are good ways to start the desensitizing process.
Once a foal has reached the weaning age the lessons become a little more direct. Teaching the horse to back up, stop, turn and lead on your command should be begun at that age. For a horse to have respect of your space it should walk on your right side, slightly behind you. When you began to walk the horse should walk at the same pace. When you come to a stop the horse should also stop at the same time, keeping that certain distance between themselves and you. An even better skill to teach a horse is for it to back up when you simply stop and start walking backwards. All of this reinforces the idea of keeping a certain amount of space in between yourself and the horse.
The second behavior to be aware of in young horses is their mouthy tendencies. They are fresh from nursing and very often will not distinguish your finger from their mother. Feeding a young horse treats by hand is a very big no no. Once it becomes a habit the horse will always assume you have a treat form them when you bring your hand around their face. This is how missing fingers can occur. If you would like to give them a treat simply place the items in their feed bucket or feed them out of a bucket in general. Also remember that horse's eyes are on the sides of their head so they have several blind spots to the front of their nose and face. Be aware of these areas and try to avoid spooking the horse by disappearing and reappearing from them.
All in all horses are very peaceful and gentle creatures. They usually do not have aggressive tendencies and will not bite or kick a person without cause. By following a few of the simple ground manner rules you can develop a relationship of mutual respect between yourself and the horse. Young horses are like young children and only know what they learn. Repetition of any event or situation is how horses learn what is right and wrong. So remember, the best way to raise a good horse is to teach it the right way, the first time. Bad manners on a young horse lead it to become an older, bigger, more dangerous horse.
Because horses are naturally fleeing animals it is not an intelligent idea to be loud and obnoxious around them. Making fast movements around a horse's head will most definitely spook it, as well as slapping them or sudden loud noises will also have that same affect. For a horse to develop good ground manners you must start working with them soon after they are born. Rubbing all over their bodies and leading them around by a halter and lead rope are good ways to start the desensitizing process.
Once a foal has reached the weaning age the lessons become a little more direct. Teaching the horse to back up, stop, turn and lead on your command should be begun at that age. For a horse to have respect of your space it should walk on your right side, slightly behind you. When you began to walk the horse should walk at the same pace. When you come to a stop the horse should also stop at the same time, keeping that certain distance between themselves and you. An even better skill to teach a horse is for it to back up when you simply stop and start walking backwards. All of this reinforces the idea of keeping a certain amount of space in between yourself and the horse.
The second behavior to be aware of in young horses is their mouthy tendencies. They are fresh from nursing and very often will not distinguish your finger from their mother. Feeding a young horse treats by hand is a very big no no. Once it becomes a habit the horse will always assume you have a treat form them when you bring your hand around their face. This is how missing fingers can occur. If you would like to give them a treat simply place the items in their feed bucket or feed them out of a bucket in general. Also remember that horse's eyes are on the sides of their head so they have several blind spots to the front of their nose and face. Be aware of these areas and try to avoid spooking the horse by disappearing and reappearing from them.
All in all horses are very peaceful and gentle creatures. They usually do not have aggressive tendencies and will not bite or kick a person without cause. By following a few of the simple ground manner rules you can develop a relationship of mutual respect between yourself and the horse. Young horses are like young children and only know what they learn. Repetition of any event or situation is how horses learn what is right and wrong. So remember, the best way to raise a good horse is to teach it the right way, the first time. Bad manners on a young horse lead it to become an older, bigger, more dangerous horse.
Cause and Effect in Horse Training
We all know that if you cause a horse to do something then you will get a certain effect. What a lot of people don't understand is how much effect they actually have on a horse. The reality is that every second that you are with your horse you are training him even if you're unaware of it. It is not uncommon for people to try to do something with their horse and actually teach it something completely different, or something they do not want him to do.
A common example s trying to teach a horse to pick up its feet. All to often as you get a foot up he will fight you with it. Now lets say as he fights you by attempting to pull it away, you unintentionally let go. What happens is that at that moment you have taught the horse something. That is that he can pull his foot away from you if you try to hold it. And so if this continues to happen too many times then you have a problem.
The horse learned he can pull his foot away and he doesn't have to hold it up for anyone. So, instead as you hold the foot, don't let him have it back until he has softened and settled down. When he quits pulling it away and is calm with it, then carefully set his foot down. This teaches the horse that you are not out to hurt him and so develops trust and confidence.
In reality it is the little things that tend to escalate and get you into trouble. The littlest thing can cause big troubles for you if you don't know the cause that created the effect. Another example is a horse that moves forward towards you after you have put him in a spot to stand. Initially most people would bump the horse backwards in an attempt to rectify this issue, and this is correct. However, most forget to place the horse back in the original position.
This is discipline for the horse, and it is discipline with love and caring. It's like telling your kid, that they have screwed up, now get back over there, stay in line, and remember that you're okay and that your relationship is still good because you love them. You get better results with horses as with children if you discipline with love rather than just discipline alone. You gain trust and loyalty, which is want we really want from our horses.
A common example s trying to teach a horse to pick up its feet. All to often as you get a foot up he will fight you with it. Now lets say as he fights you by attempting to pull it away, you unintentionally let go. What happens is that at that moment you have taught the horse something. That is that he can pull his foot away from you if you try to hold it. And so if this continues to happen too many times then you have a problem.
The horse learned he can pull his foot away and he doesn't have to hold it up for anyone. So, instead as you hold the foot, don't let him have it back until he has softened and settled down. When he quits pulling it away and is calm with it, then carefully set his foot down. This teaches the horse that you are not out to hurt him and so develops trust and confidence.
In reality it is the little things that tend to escalate and get you into trouble. The littlest thing can cause big troubles for you if you don't know the cause that created the effect. Another example is a horse that moves forward towards you after you have put him in a spot to stand. Initially most people would bump the horse backwards in an attempt to rectify this issue, and this is correct. However, most forget to place the horse back in the original position.
This is discipline for the horse, and it is discipline with love and caring. It's like telling your kid, that they have screwed up, now get back over there, stay in line, and remember that you're okay and that your relationship is still good because you love them. You get better results with horses as with children if you discipline with love rather than just discipline alone. You gain trust and loyalty, which is want we really want from our horses.
Clicker Training For Horses
Clicker training has over the years become a very popular and widespread training method for horses, however like all methods it has its benefits and shortcomings. We took a look at clicker training and what you would need to know before undertaking this type of training with your horse.
What is clicker training?
Clicker training originates from animal actor training and trainers. It is used to train animals to hit their marks and to combine required movements, gestures and actions as required by the director. It is a very powerful training tool when used correctly and can cause numerous complications if applied incorrectly.
Uses for clicker training
Clicker training for the owner is useful for encouraging the horse to perform and focus better. The clicker is used to notify the horse that it has done well, or has done what is needed. Thus building confidence in the horse, strengthening the relationship between horse and owner, both of these resulting in a more willing horse. (And hopefully a happier owner)
Clicker training from a horses' point of few is clearer than most other methods. Horses are very compliant in nature and will willingly work hard for praise and reward. With clicker training there is a definite conformation (clicker clicking) when the horse has done correctly. It then understands that it has done well and develops confidence in its abilities to do things correctly.
In most instances clicker training has proved useful in correcting problems or fears that a horse may experience, or have acquired whilst in training.
How does it work?
The clicker is a little handheld box containing a metal clicker that when pushed down makes a clicking sound. To start off the trainer is armed with this clicker, a touching rod and treats (carrots, cut up apples, whatever the horse likes). At the starting phase the horse is trained to touch the rod, on touching the clicker is clicked and the horse given a treat, thus the reward for good or desired behaviour is installed. Most horses catch on very quick, and learn to look for the rod as finding it and touching it brings rewards. Initially the food is associated as the reward, later only the clicker is required.
Is my horse suitable?
Most horses are suited to clicker training, as most horses are willing to work on this system, some horses even excel. These horses are considered natural animal actors, being able to pick up a queue and to progressively work through a series of steps with minimal time spent on training.
However there are some horses that should not be clicker trained. Of these, horses with bullying natures are at the top of the list. And by bullying we don't mean biting and kicking, we're talking about a horse that has little respect for ones space or that is willing to walk over you if needed.
Because clicker training is done on a reward system it is important that your horse be willing to comply before getting a treat. Horses with bullying natures do little and want everything, so for your own safety and sanity do not attempt to do clicker training with one of these.
The benefits for your horse
• It allows for the development of a trusting relationship between horse and owner or trainer,
• Horse will become more confidant and be more willing to work,
• Horse will become more attentive and focused as its confidence grows,
• Horse will become more willing as the training is progressive,
• Horse will be capable of overcoming its fears as it focuses more on what is asked.
The benefits to you the owner
• You will become a more confidant handler,
• You will understand the use of progressive training and that things are done in steps and stages, you will also learn how to break training stages up into these steps,
• The communication with your horse will become clearer and less frustrated,
• You will have more fun with your horse.
Clicker training is a great way to play and have fun with your horse whilst training, it allows for the development of deeper bonds. It is one of the few training systems around that encourages the trainer and handler to think of what is required, then break it down into simpler steps before building those steps up into the required result.
Or as a movie director would say "I need him to gallop up to his mark, rear up then turn and run off again" and you the clicker trainer will hear, gallop to mark and halt "Click" Rear "Click" turn and gallop off "Click." The three steps needed to complete the movement.
What is clicker training?
Clicker training originates from animal actor training and trainers. It is used to train animals to hit their marks and to combine required movements, gestures and actions as required by the director. It is a very powerful training tool when used correctly and can cause numerous complications if applied incorrectly.
Uses for clicker training
Clicker training for the owner is useful for encouraging the horse to perform and focus better. The clicker is used to notify the horse that it has done well, or has done what is needed. Thus building confidence in the horse, strengthening the relationship between horse and owner, both of these resulting in a more willing horse. (And hopefully a happier owner)
Clicker training from a horses' point of few is clearer than most other methods. Horses are very compliant in nature and will willingly work hard for praise and reward. With clicker training there is a definite conformation (clicker clicking) when the horse has done correctly. It then understands that it has done well and develops confidence in its abilities to do things correctly.
In most instances clicker training has proved useful in correcting problems or fears that a horse may experience, or have acquired whilst in training.
How does it work?
The clicker is a little handheld box containing a metal clicker that when pushed down makes a clicking sound. To start off the trainer is armed with this clicker, a touching rod and treats (carrots, cut up apples, whatever the horse likes). At the starting phase the horse is trained to touch the rod, on touching the clicker is clicked and the horse given a treat, thus the reward for good or desired behaviour is installed. Most horses catch on very quick, and learn to look for the rod as finding it and touching it brings rewards. Initially the food is associated as the reward, later only the clicker is required.
Is my horse suitable?
Most horses are suited to clicker training, as most horses are willing to work on this system, some horses even excel. These horses are considered natural animal actors, being able to pick up a queue and to progressively work through a series of steps with minimal time spent on training.
However there are some horses that should not be clicker trained. Of these, horses with bullying natures are at the top of the list. And by bullying we don't mean biting and kicking, we're talking about a horse that has little respect for ones space or that is willing to walk over you if needed.
Because clicker training is done on a reward system it is important that your horse be willing to comply before getting a treat. Horses with bullying natures do little and want everything, so for your own safety and sanity do not attempt to do clicker training with one of these.
The benefits for your horse
• It allows for the development of a trusting relationship between horse and owner or trainer,
• Horse will become more confidant and be more willing to work,
• Horse will become more attentive and focused as its confidence grows,
• Horse will become more willing as the training is progressive,
• Horse will be capable of overcoming its fears as it focuses more on what is asked.
The benefits to you the owner
• You will become a more confidant handler,
• You will understand the use of progressive training and that things are done in steps and stages, you will also learn how to break training stages up into these steps,
• The communication with your horse will become clearer and less frustrated,
• You will have more fun with your horse.
Clicker training is a great way to play and have fun with your horse whilst training, it allows for the development of deeper bonds. It is one of the few training systems around that encourages the trainer and handler to think of what is required, then break it down into simpler steps before building those steps up into the required result.
Or as a movie director would say "I need him to gallop up to his mark, rear up then turn and run off again" and you the clicker trainer will hear, gallop to mark and halt "Click" Rear "Click" turn and gallop off "Click." The three steps needed to complete the movement.
Teaching Proper Equine Ground Manners
One of the most basic skills one must possess to be able to break or interact with horses is teaching a horse ground manners. Because most horses outweigh the handler by 4 or 5 times a rude horse can be a very dangerous thing. Having ground manners means that the horse respects your personal area and vice versa. Without mutual respect you will not have a pleasant experience with horses.
Because horses are naturally fleeing animals it is not an intelligent idea to be loud and obnoxious around them. Making fast movements around a horse's head will most definitely spook it, as well as slapping them or sudden loud noises will also have that same affect. For a horse to develop good ground manners you must start working with them soon after they are born. Rubbing all over their bodies and leading them around by a halter and lead rope are good ways to start the desensitizing process.
Once a foal has reached the weaning age the lessons become a little more direct. Teaching the horse to back up, stop, turn and lead on your command should be begun at that age. For a horse to have respect of your space it should walk on your right side, slightly behind you. When you began to walk the horse should walk at the same pace. When you come to a stop the horse should also stop at the same time, keeping that certain distance between themselves and you. An even better skill to teach a horse is for it to back up when you simply stop and start walking backwards. All of this reinforces the idea of keeping a certain amount of space in between yourself and the horse.
The second behavior to be aware of in young horses is their mouthy tendencies. They are fresh from nursing and very often will not distinguish your finger from their mother. Feeding a young horse treats by hand is a very big no no. Once it becomes a habit the horse will always assume you have a treat form them when you bring your hand around their face. This is how missing fingers can occur. If you would like to give them a treat simply place the items in their feed bucket or feed them out of a bucket in general. Also remember that horse's eyes are on the sides of their head so they have several blind spots to the front of their nose and face. Be aware of these areas and try to avoid spooking the horse by disappearing and reappearing from them.
All in all horses are very peaceful and gentle creatures. They usually do not have aggressive tendencies and will not bite or kick a person without cause. By following a few of the simple ground manner rules you can develop a relationship of mutual respect between yourself and the horse. Young horses are like young children and only know what they learn. Repetition of any event or situation is how horses learn what is right and wrong. So remember, the best way to raise a good horse is to teach it the right way, the first time. Bad manners on a young horse lead it to become an older, bigger, more dangerous horse.
Because horses are naturally fleeing animals it is not an intelligent idea to be loud and obnoxious around them. Making fast movements around a horse's head will most definitely spook it, as well as slapping them or sudden loud noises will also have that same affect. For a horse to develop good ground manners you must start working with them soon after they are born. Rubbing all over their bodies and leading them around by a halter and lead rope are good ways to start the desensitizing process.
Once a foal has reached the weaning age the lessons become a little more direct. Teaching the horse to back up, stop, turn and lead on your command should be begun at that age. For a horse to have respect of your space it should walk on your right side, slightly behind you. When you began to walk the horse should walk at the same pace. When you come to a stop the horse should also stop at the same time, keeping that certain distance between themselves and you. An even better skill to teach a horse is for it to back up when you simply stop and start walking backwards. All of this reinforces the idea of keeping a certain amount of space in between yourself and the horse.
The second behavior to be aware of in young horses is their mouthy tendencies. They are fresh from nursing and very often will not distinguish your finger from their mother. Feeding a young horse treats by hand is a very big no no. Once it becomes a habit the horse will always assume you have a treat form them when you bring your hand around their face. This is how missing fingers can occur. If you would like to give them a treat simply place the items in their feed bucket or feed them out of a bucket in general. Also remember that horse's eyes are on the sides of their head so they have several blind spots to the front of their nose and face. Be aware of these areas and try to avoid spooking the horse by disappearing and reappearing from them.
All in all horses are very peaceful and gentle creatures. They usually do not have aggressive tendencies and will not bite or kick a person without cause. By following a few of the simple ground manner rules you can develop a relationship of mutual respect between yourself and the horse. Young horses are like young children and only know what they learn. Repetition of any event or situation is how horses learn what is right and wrong. So remember, the best way to raise a good horse is to teach it the right way, the first time. Bad manners on a young horse lead it to become an older, bigger, more dangerous horse.
Tips on Grooming Horses
You have to admit, you went through a phase where you constantly prayed to own a horse. Well, at least most people did.
Growing up means seeing why purchasing a horse is not a small and easy decision. You have to be knowledgeable and of course, responsible to research enough on how to groom, feed, and take good care of your horse. Believe it or not, horses do need those things. So if you want to get started, simply read on. When you have your own black stallion, or whatever kind of horse you are planning to get, you have to be really prepared. Here are just several tricks and tips on great horse care.
Horse care is not only enjoyable to the horse, but it may also be a whole lot of fun for the owner. You are not just simply horsing around because caring for your horse will create a big impact on the health of your horse. This also allows you to monitor the progress and growth of your horse. So the perfect way to establish this is to begin a daily habit of grooming them; therefore also avoiding too much grit and dirt on the body of your horse.
Here are just a few tricks and tips you can utilize in order to make grooming your horse a great experience not only for your horse, but also to you:
• The initial step is to purchase a brush. A great horse brush will allow you to brush and maintain that wonderful tail and mane. A great choice will be the plastic brush rather than the metal one because plastic is obviously more durable than metal. Metal is subject to breakage as well.
• The next thing you have to do is to find or purchase a grooming mitt. You need a mitt in order to pet your horse. A grooming mitt is also needed in brushing out the dirt and tangles on the hair and mane.
• You need to have an awful lot of brushes, so try searching and looking around for stores which sell them
• You could also opt to have a body brush. This brush can be utilized in brushing the body of your horse.
• You should also throw on a dry cloth or sponge.
• For easier and simpler handling and storage, keep your hands at all brushes in a single box.
Growing up means seeing why purchasing a horse is not a small and easy decision. You have to be knowledgeable and of course, responsible to research enough on how to groom, feed, and take good care of your horse. Believe it or not, horses do need those things. So if you want to get started, simply read on. When you have your own black stallion, or whatever kind of horse you are planning to get, you have to be really prepared. Here are just several tricks and tips on great horse care.
Horse care is not only enjoyable to the horse, but it may also be a whole lot of fun for the owner. You are not just simply horsing around because caring for your horse will create a big impact on the health of your horse. This also allows you to monitor the progress and growth of your horse. So the perfect way to establish this is to begin a daily habit of grooming them; therefore also avoiding too much grit and dirt on the body of your horse.
Here are just a few tricks and tips you can utilize in order to make grooming your horse a great experience not only for your horse, but also to you:
• The initial step is to purchase a brush. A great horse brush will allow you to brush and maintain that wonderful tail and mane. A great choice will be the plastic brush rather than the metal one because plastic is obviously more durable than metal. Metal is subject to breakage as well.
• The next thing you have to do is to find or purchase a grooming mitt. You need a mitt in order to pet your horse. A grooming mitt is also needed in brushing out the dirt and tangles on the hair and mane.
• You need to have an awful lot of brushes, so try searching and looking around for stores which sell them
• You could also opt to have a body brush. This brush can be utilized in brushing the body of your horse.
• You should also throw on a dry cloth or sponge.
• For easier and simpler handling and storage, keep your hands at all brushes in a single box.
Everything You Need to Know About Horse Saddles
Understanding the saddle?
The structure that you put on an animal's back to support the rider or other types of load is called a saddle. When one speaks of saddles, it is commonly associated with horses. But any kind of animal that could be ridden on its back has its own corresponding type of saddle. Horse saddles are a crucial piece of equipment for anyone serious about horse training.
There are two main types of saddles - the English saddle and Western saddle. These are the two types of saddle primarily used in the equestrian world, although there are many types of horse saddles used worldwide. In other nations, saddles of different designs exist. Saddles differ greatly among various ethnic groups and nationalities. It can be fun to learn about how each one is utilized.
Ordinarily, choosing what saddle to use should depend on the kind of riding you intend to do with your horse. Even narrowing it down to English or Western riding, saddles can still be broken up in many categories such as for dressage and show, endurance, pleasure or general purpose. Some common horse saddle terms you should familiarize yourself with are pommel, cantle, horn and cinch.
The English Horse Saddle
In Olympic equestrian events, the English saddle is the main type of saddle used. As the name suggests, this is the favored type among the majority of English riders. However, the English saddle can still be categorized into several more specific styles depending on the kind of event that is involved. Whether it is for show jumping, hunter jumper, eventing, dressage, horse racing, saddle seat, or polo, an appropriate type of saddle is consequently used.
The Western Horse Saddle
The Stock saddle or Western saddle is the most commonly used variety in the United States. This is the type of saddle you will see used by cowboys on cattle ranches. Today, it is used in a variety of western riding activities. Distinctively, western saddles don't have as much padding underneath and must be used with saddle blankets or pads so that they can be comfortable for the horse. They do provide much more support for the rider.
Western saddles have stirrups that are sturdier and can utilize numerous cinches depending on what they are being used for. The horn present on the front is one major factor that distinguishes this type of saddle from its English counterpart. The horn is originally used to tie a lariat when roping cattle.
Finding the Right Size
The tree of the saddle, is the frame on which the saddle is constructed. It is usually made of wood or sometimes fiberglass and then covered with leather. The frame is made to fit both the rider and the horse.
Finding the saddle that fits may require more work than you may think. An ill-fitting saddle can cause injuries to both the horse and rider. Bruising and sores may result on your horse's back muscles if you do not choose a saddle that fits properly. It is important to have a trial period before actually buying your saddle. Think of it as a piece of sports equipment for a human, it varies greatly from each individual horse. Be sure to always keep your tack clean and well oiled to prevent breakage or unnecessary discomfort to your horse.
Tips for an English Saddle
-Without a pad, put the saddle on the horse and tighten the girth
-Have a person sit in the saddle. Their feet should be in the stirrups
-Slide your fingers underneath the pommel. Make sure that you can comfortably get three fingers in between the arch below the pommel and the horse's withers.
-The saddle should not get in the way of the horse's shoulder movement by having someone lift the horse's foreleg and pull it to the front. While doing this, your fingers should be between the top of the horse's shoulder blade and the pommel. This must be done on both sides.
-Standing behind the horse and looking under the saddle, some light should be seen when the horse's head is down.
-Make sure the saddle isn't too long. It shouldn't reach back onto the horse's loins
Tips for a Western Saddle
-At least an inch thick of pad should be underneath the saddle
-The stock saddle should be placed on the horse's back and the cinch tightened so a set of fingers can be placed comfortably between the girth and the animal.
-With someone on the saddle, make sure you can fit three fingers between the arch of the pommel and the horse's withers
-Make sure that the width of the saddle tree is fitting for the horse. Put three fingers with a flat hand sideways between the saddle and the top of the horse's withers. If the fit is loose, the tree is too narrow, if it is too tight and you have to squeeze in your fingers, then the tree is too wide
The structure that you put on an animal's back to support the rider or other types of load is called a saddle. When one speaks of saddles, it is commonly associated with horses. But any kind of animal that could be ridden on its back has its own corresponding type of saddle. Horse saddles are a crucial piece of equipment for anyone serious about horse training.
There are two main types of saddles - the English saddle and Western saddle. These are the two types of saddle primarily used in the equestrian world, although there are many types of horse saddles used worldwide. In other nations, saddles of different designs exist. Saddles differ greatly among various ethnic groups and nationalities. It can be fun to learn about how each one is utilized.
Ordinarily, choosing what saddle to use should depend on the kind of riding you intend to do with your horse. Even narrowing it down to English or Western riding, saddles can still be broken up in many categories such as for dressage and show, endurance, pleasure or general purpose. Some common horse saddle terms you should familiarize yourself with are pommel, cantle, horn and cinch.
The English Horse Saddle
In Olympic equestrian events, the English saddle is the main type of saddle used. As the name suggests, this is the favored type among the majority of English riders. However, the English saddle can still be categorized into several more specific styles depending on the kind of event that is involved. Whether it is for show jumping, hunter jumper, eventing, dressage, horse racing, saddle seat, or polo, an appropriate type of saddle is consequently used.
The Western Horse Saddle
The Stock saddle or Western saddle is the most commonly used variety in the United States. This is the type of saddle you will see used by cowboys on cattle ranches. Today, it is used in a variety of western riding activities. Distinctively, western saddles don't have as much padding underneath and must be used with saddle blankets or pads so that they can be comfortable for the horse. They do provide much more support for the rider.
Western saddles have stirrups that are sturdier and can utilize numerous cinches depending on what they are being used for. The horn present on the front is one major factor that distinguishes this type of saddle from its English counterpart. The horn is originally used to tie a lariat when roping cattle.
Finding the Right Size
The tree of the saddle, is the frame on which the saddle is constructed. It is usually made of wood or sometimes fiberglass and then covered with leather. The frame is made to fit both the rider and the horse.
Finding the saddle that fits may require more work than you may think. An ill-fitting saddle can cause injuries to both the horse and rider. Bruising and sores may result on your horse's back muscles if you do not choose a saddle that fits properly. It is important to have a trial period before actually buying your saddle. Think of it as a piece of sports equipment for a human, it varies greatly from each individual horse. Be sure to always keep your tack clean and well oiled to prevent breakage or unnecessary discomfort to your horse.
Tips for an English Saddle
-Without a pad, put the saddle on the horse and tighten the girth
-Have a person sit in the saddle. Their feet should be in the stirrups
-Slide your fingers underneath the pommel. Make sure that you can comfortably get three fingers in between the arch below the pommel and the horse's withers.
-The saddle should not get in the way of the horse's shoulder movement by having someone lift the horse's foreleg and pull it to the front. While doing this, your fingers should be between the top of the horse's shoulder blade and the pommel. This must be done on both sides.
-Standing behind the horse and looking under the saddle, some light should be seen when the horse's head is down.
-Make sure the saddle isn't too long. It shouldn't reach back onto the horse's loins
Tips for a Western Saddle
-At least an inch thick of pad should be underneath the saddle
-The stock saddle should be placed on the horse's back and the cinch tightened so a set of fingers can be placed comfortably between the girth and the animal.
-With someone on the saddle, make sure you can fit three fingers between the arch of the pommel and the horse's withers
-Make sure that the width of the saddle tree is fitting for the horse. Put three fingers with a flat hand sideways between the saddle and the top of the horse's withers. If the fit is loose, the tree is too narrow, if it is too tight and you have to squeeze in your fingers, then the tree is too wide
Preparing Your Horse For Show Season
Getting ready for a successful show season requires months of intensive training and a big investment of time, effort, and dedication. It also means having the proper equipment, a well-groomed animal, and a plan of action. As the rules change between show circuits, it is imperative that the current riding equipment and apparel rules, grooming rules, and skills being judged are known. There is no sense wasting time or money by attending a show only to be summarily eliminated for using the wrong tack or wearing the wrong colored show jacket.
Each style of riding has its own requirements. Problems can easily be prevented by creating a checklist of items to be brought to each show. Be sure to use the list during preparations. Arriving early also provides much needed time to get used to the facilities and to warm up properly. In case something turns up missing, or breaks, an early arrival can provide the time needed to go and replace it before the event begins.
Use The Right Horse Riding Equipment
Using the proper horse riding equipment for each discipline is the first step in being prepared for a successful show season. This is especially true for dressage and eventing riders. The horse riding equipment must be clean and well fitting. Generally, it looks best when it is all of the same color. The overall appearance must be trim, elegant, and understated. While bright colors will certainly attract the judge's attention, it may not be the best kind of attention. At the same time, riders can certainly select horse riding equipment and apparel that best suits the color of their mount.
Horse riding equipment must be clean and well oiled, but a jumping class should never be attempted right after oiling the saddle. Once the tack is cleaned, keep it covered. A blanket or a clean article of horse clothing works just fine to keep the dust and dirt off. To get an added boost this show season, take the time to see what the judges are looking for. Observe other classes and take notes. If a particular judge appears to prefer dark leather and dark riding attire, take advantage of that information the next time they judge the class you are competing in by dressing appropriately.
Grooming For Success
Oiling the horse riding equipment is only half the battle. The mount must look well groomed and properly cared for as well. A good bath with lanolin soap removes all the dirt and mud while creating a moisturizing effect. If their skin tends to dry out, there are many quality products on the market that will condition and treat the problem. A dull coat can be improved quickly with a spray conditioner just before entering the ring.
After bathing the horse, comb, pull, and braid the mane and tail, depending upon the style of riding and the circuit requirements. Hooves should be cleaned, oiled, and polished to look their best. After ensuring that the horse is properly groomed, be sure to maintain their polished appearance with horse clothing that keeps dust and dirt off. Many riders use various tricks to keep their grooming efforts protected, but the best bet is simply to use high quality horse clothing and keep a towel handy.
Warm Up And Unwind
The worst thing you can do to both yourself and your mount is to ride into the show ring cold. A good warm-up will loosen muscles, making them able to function optimally, and will provide both of you time to get in sync with each other. Arriving at the show early will give you plenty of time to warm up and get used to everything. Keeping a couple of treats in your pocket is another way to help your mount relax and enjoy attending shows. Staying hydrated will help both of you look and feel your best.
Prior to a show, prepare for dealing with strange environments by making a point of getting out and away from customary surroundings. Breaking away from their normal comfort zone will help both of you to be relaxed and at your best in the show ring.
Shopping for the correct tack and keeping it well oiled, keeping your grooming efforts safe under protective horse clothing, and staying relaxed in new environments will all create an advantage this show season. Looking and performing optimally is far easier when one is properly prepared for a winning season.
Each style of riding has its own requirements. Problems can easily be prevented by creating a checklist of items to be brought to each show. Be sure to use the list during preparations. Arriving early also provides much needed time to get used to the facilities and to warm up properly. In case something turns up missing, or breaks, an early arrival can provide the time needed to go and replace it before the event begins.
Use The Right Horse Riding Equipment
Using the proper horse riding equipment for each discipline is the first step in being prepared for a successful show season. This is especially true for dressage and eventing riders. The horse riding equipment must be clean and well fitting. Generally, it looks best when it is all of the same color. The overall appearance must be trim, elegant, and understated. While bright colors will certainly attract the judge's attention, it may not be the best kind of attention. At the same time, riders can certainly select horse riding equipment and apparel that best suits the color of their mount.
Horse riding equipment must be clean and well oiled, but a jumping class should never be attempted right after oiling the saddle. Once the tack is cleaned, keep it covered. A blanket or a clean article of horse clothing works just fine to keep the dust and dirt off. To get an added boost this show season, take the time to see what the judges are looking for. Observe other classes and take notes. If a particular judge appears to prefer dark leather and dark riding attire, take advantage of that information the next time they judge the class you are competing in by dressing appropriately.
Grooming For Success
Oiling the horse riding equipment is only half the battle. The mount must look well groomed and properly cared for as well. A good bath with lanolin soap removes all the dirt and mud while creating a moisturizing effect. If their skin tends to dry out, there are many quality products on the market that will condition and treat the problem. A dull coat can be improved quickly with a spray conditioner just before entering the ring.
After bathing the horse, comb, pull, and braid the mane and tail, depending upon the style of riding and the circuit requirements. Hooves should be cleaned, oiled, and polished to look their best. After ensuring that the horse is properly groomed, be sure to maintain their polished appearance with horse clothing that keeps dust and dirt off. Many riders use various tricks to keep their grooming efforts protected, but the best bet is simply to use high quality horse clothing and keep a towel handy.
Warm Up And Unwind
The worst thing you can do to both yourself and your mount is to ride into the show ring cold. A good warm-up will loosen muscles, making them able to function optimally, and will provide both of you time to get in sync with each other. Arriving at the show early will give you plenty of time to warm up and get used to everything. Keeping a couple of treats in your pocket is another way to help your mount relax and enjoy attending shows. Staying hydrated will help both of you look and feel your best.
Prior to a show, prepare for dealing with strange environments by making a point of getting out and away from customary surroundings. Breaking away from their normal comfort zone will help both of you to be relaxed and at your best in the show ring.
Shopping for the correct tack and keeping it well oiled, keeping your grooming efforts safe under protective horse clothing, and staying relaxed in new environments will all create an advantage this show season. Looking and performing optimally is far easier when one is properly prepared for a winning season.
Wednesday, May 26, 2010
Cost Effective Ways to Manage Horse Wounds
An inevitable part of owning a horse is dealing with wounds and injuries. As much as well all hate to think about it, they happen and when they do, you will need to know what to do to care for your equine friend. The good news is much of the basic wound care can be done quite easily, and in a very cost effective manner.
How Horses Become Wounded
Horses by nature are active creatures that enjoy running, jumping, and frolicking about. Because of this nature, they tend to become injured from objects they encounter during their daily activities. Nails, fencing, barbed wire, metal, and glass are all objects that can be readily found around the stables and barnyard. Horses can run into these things, step on them, or become stuck. This can result in a wide variety of injuries such as scrapes, cuts, puncture wounds, and even sores. Minor injuries can be easily treated by you; however more serious injuries should always be checked by a veterinarian to ensure infection does not set in. Even in the case of a more serious injury, you should still know how to properly administer first aid until help arrives.
What You Will Need For Basic First Aid
Every horseperson should have a proper first aid kit handy to care for their equine friend. In fact, you should have multiple kits for different purposes; one for the barn, one to pack to take with you on rides, and one in your trailer for travel. This kit can be easily assembled by gathering items you have around your home, or items you can pick up for a reasonable cost at any drug, wholesale, or feed store.
Your equine first aid kit should consist of the following:
-A roll of gauze and gauze squares for dressing wounds;
-Adhesive tape, or duct tape for keeping wound dressings in place;
-Hand towels or cut up bath towels for cleaning wounds or for stopping bleeding;
-Scissors;
-Q-tips;
-A spray bottle or two;
-Tweezers;
-Leg wraps;
-Betadine or disinfectant;
-Antibiotic ointments;
-Petroleum jelly;
-A large syringe for flushing out wounds;
-Plenty of sterile saline solution.
How To Care For Wounds
The first step to caring for horse wounds of any kind is to always clean the area thoroughly. Using the sterile saline solution from your kit, spray the entire affected area to flush the wound in order to wash out as much dirt, debris, and bacteria as possible. Make sure you use plenty of solution and spray in a way that the excess will pour downward to the ground taking all unwanted bacteria with it. From this point, the care will vary a bit depending on the nature of the wound.
For abrasions: Abrasions can occur in many ways, from falling and sliding, to simply bumping into an object and skinning an area. Make sure you thoroughly inspect the area to make sure there are no more serious injuries such as a broken bone, a puncture, or other damage. Assuming there is nothing more seriously wrong, clean the area with the saline as directed above, and then disinfect the wound with a betadine solution to kill any bacteria. Make sure you clean the area gently, and never scrub or put too much pressure on the wound. The affected area will be sore for several days, so use care when handling your horse. It could take a few weeks for the wound to completely disappear depending on the degree of the injury. If the area starts to swell, you can hose it off with cold water from a garden hose to help reduce the swelling and provide a bit of comfort. A vitamin E ointment can be applied to help with healing and to protect it from dirt and other debris. If for any reason the wound does not seem to be healing, seems to be getting worse, or the horse in a great deal of pain, you will need to contact a veterinarian.
For puncture wounds: Puncture wounds can vary a great deal in seriousness depending on where they are located on the body, how large they are, and how deep they are. If the puncture has occurred anywhere on the chest or abdomen, seek professional help immediately; injuries in this area can harm internal organs. If the puncture is on the legs, hip, or hindquarter area, begin by checking to make sure there is nothing still inside the wound, measure the depth by using a Q-tip, clean the wound out with saline, and bandage properly. If the puncture is bleeding, but does not appear to be too deep or have anything in the wound, attempt to stop the bleeding by using gauze or a clean towel. Once the bleeding has stopped, clean the wound with saline, check the depth, and bandage. If the puncture has left the skin around the wound jagged or torn, properly clean and then wrap the area with bandages that have been dampened with sterile saline.
For lacerations: In many cases, lacerations need to be examined by a veterinarian and will need a course of antibiotics to help prevent infection. However, you can treat most lacerations yourself until you can seek professional help. Begin by thoroughly examining the leg to make sure a more serious injury has not occurred to the tendons or ligaments. If your horse has suddenly gone lame, check it over to look for even the smallest lacerations. Even a very superficial cut can cause your horse to become temporarily lame. Finding and treating these cuts early can drastically reduce permanent problems and damage. After examining the horse, place a leg wrap on the horse's other legs to help it support the extra amount of weight that is shifted from the injured leg. Next, clean the cut with sterile saline and try to judge whether or not the cut is deep enough to warrant stitches. If it does not appear too deep, wrap it thoroughly with gauze and a bandage.
Remember, your horse may be in pain, and may not realize that you are trying to help when it is injured. Always approach with caution and use extra care to help calm and soothe your horse. If you do not feel comfortable treating the injury yourself, seek help immediately. The last thing you will want is for you to become injured as well.
How Horses Become Wounded
Horses by nature are active creatures that enjoy running, jumping, and frolicking about. Because of this nature, they tend to become injured from objects they encounter during their daily activities. Nails, fencing, barbed wire, metal, and glass are all objects that can be readily found around the stables and barnyard. Horses can run into these things, step on them, or become stuck. This can result in a wide variety of injuries such as scrapes, cuts, puncture wounds, and even sores. Minor injuries can be easily treated by you; however more serious injuries should always be checked by a veterinarian to ensure infection does not set in. Even in the case of a more serious injury, you should still know how to properly administer first aid until help arrives.
What You Will Need For Basic First Aid
Every horseperson should have a proper first aid kit handy to care for their equine friend. In fact, you should have multiple kits for different purposes; one for the barn, one to pack to take with you on rides, and one in your trailer for travel. This kit can be easily assembled by gathering items you have around your home, or items you can pick up for a reasonable cost at any drug, wholesale, or feed store.
Your equine first aid kit should consist of the following:
-A roll of gauze and gauze squares for dressing wounds;
-Adhesive tape, or duct tape for keeping wound dressings in place;
-Hand towels or cut up bath towels for cleaning wounds or for stopping bleeding;
-Scissors;
-Q-tips;
-A spray bottle or two;
-Tweezers;
-Leg wraps;
-Betadine or disinfectant;
-Antibiotic ointments;
-Petroleum jelly;
-A large syringe for flushing out wounds;
-Plenty of sterile saline solution.
How To Care For Wounds
The first step to caring for horse wounds of any kind is to always clean the area thoroughly. Using the sterile saline solution from your kit, spray the entire affected area to flush the wound in order to wash out as much dirt, debris, and bacteria as possible. Make sure you use plenty of solution and spray in a way that the excess will pour downward to the ground taking all unwanted bacteria with it. From this point, the care will vary a bit depending on the nature of the wound.
For abrasions: Abrasions can occur in many ways, from falling and sliding, to simply bumping into an object and skinning an area. Make sure you thoroughly inspect the area to make sure there are no more serious injuries such as a broken bone, a puncture, or other damage. Assuming there is nothing more seriously wrong, clean the area with the saline as directed above, and then disinfect the wound with a betadine solution to kill any bacteria. Make sure you clean the area gently, and never scrub or put too much pressure on the wound. The affected area will be sore for several days, so use care when handling your horse. It could take a few weeks for the wound to completely disappear depending on the degree of the injury. If the area starts to swell, you can hose it off with cold water from a garden hose to help reduce the swelling and provide a bit of comfort. A vitamin E ointment can be applied to help with healing and to protect it from dirt and other debris. If for any reason the wound does not seem to be healing, seems to be getting worse, or the horse in a great deal of pain, you will need to contact a veterinarian.
For puncture wounds: Puncture wounds can vary a great deal in seriousness depending on where they are located on the body, how large they are, and how deep they are. If the puncture has occurred anywhere on the chest or abdomen, seek professional help immediately; injuries in this area can harm internal organs. If the puncture is on the legs, hip, or hindquarter area, begin by checking to make sure there is nothing still inside the wound, measure the depth by using a Q-tip, clean the wound out with saline, and bandage properly. If the puncture is bleeding, but does not appear to be too deep or have anything in the wound, attempt to stop the bleeding by using gauze or a clean towel. Once the bleeding has stopped, clean the wound with saline, check the depth, and bandage. If the puncture has left the skin around the wound jagged or torn, properly clean and then wrap the area with bandages that have been dampened with sterile saline.
For lacerations: In many cases, lacerations need to be examined by a veterinarian and will need a course of antibiotics to help prevent infection. However, you can treat most lacerations yourself until you can seek professional help. Begin by thoroughly examining the leg to make sure a more serious injury has not occurred to the tendons or ligaments. If your horse has suddenly gone lame, check it over to look for even the smallest lacerations. Even a very superficial cut can cause your horse to become temporarily lame. Finding and treating these cuts early can drastically reduce permanent problems and damage. After examining the horse, place a leg wrap on the horse's other legs to help it support the extra amount of weight that is shifted from the injured leg. Next, clean the cut with sterile saline and try to judge whether or not the cut is deep enough to warrant stitches. If it does not appear too deep, wrap it thoroughly with gauze and a bandage.
Remember, your horse may be in pain, and may not realize that you are trying to help when it is injured. Always approach with caution and use extra care to help calm and soothe your horse. If you do not feel comfortable treating the injury yourself, seek help immediately. The last thing you will want is for you to become injured as well.
Training a Horse For Harness
Ever watched one of those period movies, noticing the horse drawn carriages and thinking to yourself you want to do that, or what would it be like? Join us on a journey now to see just what it takes to become a carriage driver, and how a horse is trained to harness.
Most people who take up carriage driving are either those who do not feel confident on the back of a horse, or who due to physical limitations cannot ride, but still wants to enjoy the company of horses or the thrill of horse sports.
Driving has become increasingly popular for use with weddings and special events today with many competitive drivers now offering this service as a means of funding the upkeep of their horses and carriages. Ponies with kids' carts have become a popular and often lucrative favourite on fairs and festivals.
Well to start carriage driving you would need a horse of course. However not all horses are suited to carriage driving. When looking at, or for a horse to use for driving the most important consideration is temperament. A carriage horse often requires prolonged periods of sanding, and nervous or fidgety horses do not do well, not to mention they are more likely to startle or shy.
For years now many have looked at certain breeds when searching for a carriage horse. And although there are breeds like the Friesian, Hackney, Connemara and Welsh Cobs who are considered as good carriage horses/ponies, the truth is any breed of horse is suitable for carriage driving, as the success of the horse largely depends on its outlook and conformation
When looking at conformation of the carriage horse "the wider the better" but it is not a rule of thumb. Horses with width do have more power and will find pulling a carriage easier the narrower ones are however capable too. A wider horse just looks better. When selecting a carriage horse on conformation, one would be looking more towards your cob types; a strong sturdy levelheaded horse is best.
Well once you have the horse it would need training. Because driving and particularly competitive driving is a strenuous sport, being hard on a horses back it is advisable to only start the training of a carriage horse once it has reached the age of five.
It is also good practice to have the horse backed and going under saddle for at least a year prior to training it for carriage. That way the horse will be used to hearing ones' voice from behind it as well as receiving commands from the reins and behind it.
The initial stage of training a horse to harness is that of long lining and then training the horse to drag an object behind it, good indications that the horse is ready for advanced work is when it pushes forward with its chest prior to walking off, and is nor alarmed by the sound of the object dragging behind it.
At this stage the horse should be teamed up with a more experienced horse and attached to a light carriage with a handler walking next to the horse. Ensure that the fastening of the horse to the carriage (for the first few times) allows for the handler to quickly untie the horse should it be needed, once the horse is comfortable without the handler it should be driven with a partner for at least a month, two to three times a week, allowing for the horse to build up confidence and to get use to bracing against the carriage when slowing down. Once completed the horse can then start to work alone.
Training a carriage horse this way will minimize the possibility of accidents or injuries sustained to either horse or handler. It will also allow for the horse to gain the required experience and confidence in his work before needing to "go it alone".
Please do not try to train your horse yourself if you do not have the experience, many serious and sometimes fatal accidents can occur were a horse to bolt with a carriage. It is best to get help from someone who knows and can lend a guiding hand and horse.
Driver Training:
In Europe you are actually required to pass a driving test should you wish to use a horse and carriage on the roads. But initially you would learn to drive a single horse, then work your way up to two (known as pairs or tandem) then three (known as a unicorn or fan) and four (known as four in hand) very seldom today do we see teams of more than four, and even then it is done mostly for display.
What Equipment Would you Need
-To start off you will require a single harness consisting of a Bridle complete with blinkers, a bit (the most commonly used is the Liverpool bit, or a four ring snaffle) and reins measuring up to 7.5M. A breastplate, or collar depending on the design. A saddle (no not your riding saddle) that houses the Terrets (loops the reins pass through) the bearing rein hook and crupper attachment. And then the part known as the breeching (The part that goes round and over the quarters, this assists with preventing the carriage bumping into the horse whilst stopping or slowing down.)
-The trace lines (which attach the horse to the carriage)
-A light single horse drawn carriage sporting a double shaft in between which the horse is harnessed
-A light driving whip almost resembles a lunging whip
Driving Sports
Competitive driving has been steadily on the increase the last few years, with driving marathons increasing in both competitors and supporters. However for the lighter minded there is:
-pleasure driving (showing)
-dressage driving (yes you do a test)
-obstacle courses for the more sporting and accurate drivers, obstacle courses are laid out using highway marker cones and tennis balls.
And then there is marathon driving with a team of humans usually consisting of but not limited to the driver and groom who assists with counterbalancing the carriage around sharp turns (requires loads of guts, and a few under the belt at times). The best way to describe a marathon is and obstacle course navigated at almost breakneck speeds in the countryside against the clock (hence the break neck speed).
Could Your Horse be Used for any Sport Other than Driving
Driving horses are not just used for driving, a well schooled horse can combine driving with other equestrian sports, however most owners of driving horses tend to use them as hacks. A driving horse would be capable of competing in most lower levels of equestrian sports with the exception of dressage, as driving tends encourage the horse to lean forward onto the forehand, something very unsuited to the dressage horse.
However no matter what your level carriage driving can be fun and very rewarding.
Most people who take up carriage driving are either those who do not feel confident on the back of a horse, or who due to physical limitations cannot ride, but still wants to enjoy the company of horses or the thrill of horse sports.
Driving has become increasingly popular for use with weddings and special events today with many competitive drivers now offering this service as a means of funding the upkeep of their horses and carriages. Ponies with kids' carts have become a popular and often lucrative favourite on fairs and festivals.
Well to start carriage driving you would need a horse of course. However not all horses are suited to carriage driving. When looking at, or for a horse to use for driving the most important consideration is temperament. A carriage horse often requires prolonged periods of sanding, and nervous or fidgety horses do not do well, not to mention they are more likely to startle or shy.
For years now many have looked at certain breeds when searching for a carriage horse. And although there are breeds like the Friesian, Hackney, Connemara and Welsh Cobs who are considered as good carriage horses/ponies, the truth is any breed of horse is suitable for carriage driving, as the success of the horse largely depends on its outlook and conformation
When looking at conformation of the carriage horse "the wider the better" but it is not a rule of thumb. Horses with width do have more power and will find pulling a carriage easier the narrower ones are however capable too. A wider horse just looks better. When selecting a carriage horse on conformation, one would be looking more towards your cob types; a strong sturdy levelheaded horse is best.
Well once you have the horse it would need training. Because driving and particularly competitive driving is a strenuous sport, being hard on a horses back it is advisable to only start the training of a carriage horse once it has reached the age of five.
It is also good practice to have the horse backed and going under saddle for at least a year prior to training it for carriage. That way the horse will be used to hearing ones' voice from behind it as well as receiving commands from the reins and behind it.
The initial stage of training a horse to harness is that of long lining and then training the horse to drag an object behind it, good indications that the horse is ready for advanced work is when it pushes forward with its chest prior to walking off, and is nor alarmed by the sound of the object dragging behind it.
At this stage the horse should be teamed up with a more experienced horse and attached to a light carriage with a handler walking next to the horse. Ensure that the fastening of the horse to the carriage (for the first few times) allows for the handler to quickly untie the horse should it be needed, once the horse is comfortable without the handler it should be driven with a partner for at least a month, two to three times a week, allowing for the horse to build up confidence and to get use to bracing against the carriage when slowing down. Once completed the horse can then start to work alone.
Training a carriage horse this way will minimize the possibility of accidents or injuries sustained to either horse or handler. It will also allow for the horse to gain the required experience and confidence in his work before needing to "go it alone".
Please do not try to train your horse yourself if you do not have the experience, many serious and sometimes fatal accidents can occur were a horse to bolt with a carriage. It is best to get help from someone who knows and can lend a guiding hand and horse.
Driver Training:
In Europe you are actually required to pass a driving test should you wish to use a horse and carriage on the roads. But initially you would learn to drive a single horse, then work your way up to two (known as pairs or tandem) then three (known as a unicorn or fan) and four (known as four in hand) very seldom today do we see teams of more than four, and even then it is done mostly for display.
What Equipment Would you Need
-To start off you will require a single harness consisting of a Bridle complete with blinkers, a bit (the most commonly used is the Liverpool bit, or a four ring snaffle) and reins measuring up to 7.5M. A breastplate, or collar depending on the design. A saddle (no not your riding saddle) that houses the Terrets (loops the reins pass through) the bearing rein hook and crupper attachment. And then the part known as the breeching (The part that goes round and over the quarters, this assists with preventing the carriage bumping into the horse whilst stopping or slowing down.)
-The trace lines (which attach the horse to the carriage)
-A light single horse drawn carriage sporting a double shaft in between which the horse is harnessed
-A light driving whip almost resembles a lunging whip
Driving Sports
Competitive driving has been steadily on the increase the last few years, with driving marathons increasing in both competitors and supporters. However for the lighter minded there is:
-pleasure driving (showing)
-dressage driving (yes you do a test)
-obstacle courses for the more sporting and accurate drivers, obstacle courses are laid out using highway marker cones and tennis balls.
And then there is marathon driving with a team of humans usually consisting of but not limited to the driver and groom who assists with counterbalancing the carriage around sharp turns (requires loads of guts, and a few under the belt at times). The best way to describe a marathon is and obstacle course navigated at almost breakneck speeds in the countryside against the clock (hence the break neck speed).
Could Your Horse be Used for any Sport Other than Driving
Driving horses are not just used for driving, a well schooled horse can combine driving with other equestrian sports, however most owners of driving horses tend to use them as hacks. A driving horse would be capable of competing in most lower levels of equestrian sports with the exception of dressage, as driving tends encourage the horse to lean forward onto the forehand, something very unsuited to the dressage horse.
However no matter what your level carriage driving can be fun and very rewarding.
How to Find a Low Cost Pet Clinic Near You
With the average cost of a veterinary office visit exceeding $150 these days, it's no wonder that pet owners are actively seeking out lower cost alternatives to their pets' veterinary care. One popular source for veterinary services at reduced prices is the low cost pet clinic. The popularity of these mobile clinics is growing exponentially across the country for one simple reason: when it comes to veterinary preventive health care and outpatient pet health care challenges, such as skin allergies, ear infections, and minor disease conditions, a low cost pet clinic can save pet owners big money!
Keep in mind that a mobile low cost pet clinic is not the same as a mobile veterinary clinic. The latter usually refers to a house call practice. Veterinary house calls can be pricey; you're paying for convenience (and mileage). On the contrary, low cost pet clinics are cheap because they keep overhead low. They set up shop in parking lots of shopping centers or the back rooms of feed stores. These clinics tend to stay in a location for a day or two and then move on.
Typical low cost pet clinics specialize in one or more of the following areas: vaccinations, parasite control and prevention, spay/neuter, and/or minor outpatient veterinary medical care. When looking for one, be aware that some exclude certain services. For example, many limit their services to vaccines and parasite control and do not offer any outpatient care. It is important to ask ahead of time.
Finding one of these clinics in your area can sometimes be tricky, as they are constantly on the move. Here are several tips to help you locate one.
1. Pick up a free local newspaper and scan the ads for upcoming clinics. Craiglist is another good place to look for low cost pet clinics in your particular city or region.
2. Call a feed store or pet supply retailer in your area and ask them if they hold a low cost pet clinic at their facility. If they don't, they probably can help you find a place that does.
3. Contact your local animal shelter and ask if they know of a clinic in the area. In some cases, they may even hold one from time to time.
4. Google "low cost veterinary" or "low cost pet", followed by the name of your city or town and see what comes up. For example, Mobile Pet Care Clinic of Texas, a company based in San Antonio, TX, has its own website with the date, time, and location of each clinic it conducts.
5. Contact your local State Board of Veterinary Medical Examiners (or the equivalent agency in your particular state) and ask if they know of an upcoming low cost pet clinic being held in your city or town. Any veterinary practice that is not confined to one location must report the dates, times, and locations of all mobile clinics to these regulatory bodies.
As you can see, it may take a little digging, but you should be able to locate a low cost clinic near you. The effort will be worth it, as it could save you significant amounts of money. A low cost pet clinic should not replace your regular veterinarian as your pet's primary care provider. However, it can serve as a valuable and economical accessory in your best friend's overall health care arsenal.
Dr. Chris Pinney has over 24 years of experience as a veterinary clinician and surgeon. He has authored numerous books on pet health care and has appeared on a variety of radio talk shows and television programs, including Eye On Pets and Animal Planet.
Keep in mind that a mobile low cost pet clinic is not the same as a mobile veterinary clinic. The latter usually refers to a house call practice. Veterinary house calls can be pricey; you're paying for convenience (and mileage). On the contrary, low cost pet clinics are cheap because they keep overhead low. They set up shop in parking lots of shopping centers or the back rooms of feed stores. These clinics tend to stay in a location for a day or two and then move on.
Typical low cost pet clinics specialize in one or more of the following areas: vaccinations, parasite control and prevention, spay/neuter, and/or minor outpatient veterinary medical care. When looking for one, be aware that some exclude certain services. For example, many limit their services to vaccines and parasite control and do not offer any outpatient care. It is important to ask ahead of time.
Finding one of these clinics in your area can sometimes be tricky, as they are constantly on the move. Here are several tips to help you locate one.
1. Pick up a free local newspaper and scan the ads for upcoming clinics. Craiglist is another good place to look for low cost pet clinics in your particular city or region.
2. Call a feed store or pet supply retailer in your area and ask them if they hold a low cost pet clinic at their facility. If they don't, they probably can help you find a place that does.
3. Contact your local animal shelter and ask if they know of a clinic in the area. In some cases, they may even hold one from time to time.
4. Google "low cost veterinary" or "low cost pet", followed by the name of your city or town and see what comes up. For example, Mobile Pet Care Clinic of Texas, a company based in San Antonio, TX, has its own website with the date, time, and location of each clinic it conducts.
5. Contact your local State Board of Veterinary Medical Examiners (or the equivalent agency in your particular state) and ask if they know of an upcoming low cost pet clinic being held in your city or town. Any veterinary practice that is not confined to one location must report the dates, times, and locations of all mobile clinics to these regulatory bodies.
As you can see, it may take a little digging, but you should be able to locate a low cost clinic near you. The effort will be worth it, as it could save you significant amounts of money. A low cost pet clinic should not replace your regular veterinarian as your pet's primary care provider. However, it can serve as a valuable and economical accessory in your best friend's overall health care arsenal.
Dr. Chris Pinney has over 24 years of experience as a veterinary clinician and surgeon. He has authored numerous books on pet health care and has appeared on a variety of radio talk shows and television programs, including Eye On Pets and Animal Planet.
Shopping For Petsafe Pet Collars
Various pet collar styles are available in the market nowadays. Every style of pet collar has it unique brand of feel and look. Are you shopping for a pet collar? Well, if you are, it is understandable that you find it difficult to decide on which really is the right collar for the most beloved pet of yours.
If you are looking for a collar for your dog, then the most common type available on the market is simply, a collar without any special attachments, straps or loops. It is simple a dog collar that you can loop around the neck of your dog, with a metal right in it to hold the nametag of your dog.
Now, if you prefer other styles from the most ordinary type, there is quite a large number. Now if you prefer any special material for your dog collar, there are also hundreds of various styles to choose from. Standard collars are usually made of leather or nylon and comes in various styles and colors. A metal buckle is used so that they can be attached to the neck of your pet. Nowadays, other styles of collars are equipped with plastic, with plastic clips to get the collar on and off the pet's neck quickly.
Pet collars can also be very customizable in a variety of ways. You can stitch your pet's name into the collar itself and not get a separate tag anymore. You can also buy them customized with special patterns, designs, color or material, according to what you or your pet prefers.
The market now offers one that is called choke collar. This type can be used generally for training your pet and must not be placed on your pet's neck for a long period. Typically, this type of collar is made solely of metal and can be placed around your dog's neck during training period. It tightens around your dog's neck when you pull on it, obliging him to obey your commands. It can also be a useful collar when you are on the process of training your dog to just stay with you during hunting. It also teaches your dog not to pull against the collar when you are both out on a walk. However, caution must be practiced in pulling it since it might constrict your dog's breathing when pulled too hard.
Petsafe pet collar is a very good option in choosing a pet collar since Petsafe is an established manufacturer. Their products are safe, reliable and durable, nothing but comfort for your pet if you opt to buy a petsafe pet collar.
Meanwhile, if you are looking into hunting dog collars, you can check out for different styles online. There are various hunting dog collars online that can be purchased through an online store.
Another type of pet collar is the halter. This type is usually used when going on walks and a leash is needed. It is very beneficial for your pet because it is attached through the dog's shoulders and chest instead of just on its throat. Thus, if the leash were ever pulled, the force would be evenly distributed over your pet's shoulders and chest and reduce the tension on your pet's breathing tubes, helping them to have lesser constricted breathing capacity during walking and makes the experience less stressful.
Remember, you need to have a general preference or idea of the particular type of pet collar you should shop for. While you are just looking for a standard type of collar, you may never know when you find that you can have something more specialized or customized according to your pet's tastes and establish its individuality.
If you are looking for a collar for your dog, then the most common type available on the market is simply, a collar without any special attachments, straps or loops. It is simple a dog collar that you can loop around the neck of your dog, with a metal right in it to hold the nametag of your dog.
Now, if you prefer other styles from the most ordinary type, there is quite a large number. Now if you prefer any special material for your dog collar, there are also hundreds of various styles to choose from. Standard collars are usually made of leather or nylon and comes in various styles and colors. A metal buckle is used so that they can be attached to the neck of your pet. Nowadays, other styles of collars are equipped with plastic, with plastic clips to get the collar on and off the pet's neck quickly.
Pet collars can also be very customizable in a variety of ways. You can stitch your pet's name into the collar itself and not get a separate tag anymore. You can also buy them customized with special patterns, designs, color or material, according to what you or your pet prefers.
The market now offers one that is called choke collar. This type can be used generally for training your pet and must not be placed on your pet's neck for a long period. Typically, this type of collar is made solely of metal and can be placed around your dog's neck during training period. It tightens around your dog's neck when you pull on it, obliging him to obey your commands. It can also be a useful collar when you are on the process of training your dog to just stay with you during hunting. It also teaches your dog not to pull against the collar when you are both out on a walk. However, caution must be practiced in pulling it since it might constrict your dog's breathing when pulled too hard.
Petsafe pet collar is a very good option in choosing a pet collar since Petsafe is an established manufacturer. Their products are safe, reliable and durable, nothing but comfort for your pet if you opt to buy a petsafe pet collar.
Meanwhile, if you are looking into hunting dog collars, you can check out for different styles online. There are various hunting dog collars online that can be purchased through an online store.
Another type of pet collar is the halter. This type is usually used when going on walks and a leash is needed. It is very beneficial for your pet because it is attached through the dog's shoulders and chest instead of just on its throat. Thus, if the leash were ever pulled, the force would be evenly distributed over your pet's shoulders and chest and reduce the tension on your pet's breathing tubes, helping them to have lesser constricted breathing capacity during walking and makes the experience less stressful.
Remember, you need to have a general preference or idea of the particular type of pet collar you should shop for. While you are just looking for a standard type of collar, you may never know when you find that you can have something more specialized or customized according to your pet's tastes and establish its individuality.
How to Pick a Pet and Live Longer
If you have never owned a pet then knowing how to choose the right pet for your personality is important. If you already have a pet and are considering adding another there are a few things you should know.
If you tell a pet owner that you are considering getting a pet and they will probably launch into a lengthy monologue about how wonderful their pet is. They will also probably tell you that having a pet is work and they are right.
Planning to add a pet in your life requires you to think about your lifestyle and the type of pet that would suit you best. After all, you are not getting a new pair of shoes that will be forgotten in a year or less.
You are going to be responsible for another living thing. How do you choose wisely?
• What type of home do you live in?
• How many hours are you away from home for work?
• Are you a laid back couch potato or something of an athlete?
• Are there children in your home?
• Do you like to travel frequently?
There is a good reason behind each of these questions. A person living in an apartment may not be allowed to have large dogs. A homeowner who does have a large backyard may need to fence it in.
Dogs and cats differ in their emotional and physical needs. A dog needs regular exercise and potty time during the day. A cat typically can entertain itself and can use a litter box.
If you have your heart set on a high energy dog like a lab then you will need to commit to lots of exercise and walks. If you are not quite up to this then choosing a breed that likes to lie in your lap is best.
Pets are a wonderful addition to a home with children but you will need to monitor the children and the pet until each has gotten used to the other.
If you like to travel you can still enjoy the love and companionship of a pet. You may need to find a good sitter while you are away to make sure your pet is well cared for. If you tend to travel by car or RV then you can take your new best friend with you!
You will want to consider the type of pet based upon your personality and lifestyle. You will need to make sure you get a good match in terms of their energy level and yours.
The fact is that research has shown for years that people with beloved pets are healthier both physically and mentally. The love that your pet, whether a dog or cat, will give you is like no other love you will ever receive!
If you tell a pet owner that you are considering getting a pet and they will probably launch into a lengthy monologue about how wonderful their pet is. They will also probably tell you that having a pet is work and they are right.
Planning to add a pet in your life requires you to think about your lifestyle and the type of pet that would suit you best. After all, you are not getting a new pair of shoes that will be forgotten in a year or less.
You are going to be responsible for another living thing. How do you choose wisely?
• What type of home do you live in?
• How many hours are you away from home for work?
• Are you a laid back couch potato or something of an athlete?
• Are there children in your home?
• Do you like to travel frequently?
There is a good reason behind each of these questions. A person living in an apartment may not be allowed to have large dogs. A homeowner who does have a large backyard may need to fence it in.
Dogs and cats differ in their emotional and physical needs. A dog needs regular exercise and potty time during the day. A cat typically can entertain itself and can use a litter box.
If you have your heart set on a high energy dog like a lab then you will need to commit to lots of exercise and walks. If you are not quite up to this then choosing a breed that likes to lie in your lap is best.
Pets are a wonderful addition to a home with children but you will need to monitor the children and the pet until each has gotten used to the other.
If you like to travel you can still enjoy the love and companionship of a pet. You may need to find a good sitter while you are away to make sure your pet is well cared for. If you tend to travel by car or RV then you can take your new best friend with you!
You will want to consider the type of pet based upon your personality and lifestyle. You will need to make sure you get a good match in terms of their energy level and yours.
The fact is that research has shown for years that people with beloved pets are healthier both physically and mentally. The love that your pet, whether a dog or cat, will give you is like no other love you will ever receive!
Tuesday, May 25, 2010
What to Do If Your Pet is Stung by a Bee Or Wasp
It's getting towards that time of year again when pets and children alike are tearing around in the back yard and can be susceptible to bee and wasp stings. Unfortunately, for some animals, being stung can be a matter of life and death. Therefore, it is important for an owner to know exactly what to do.
Of course, the chances are you will not notice that your pet has been stung, until you see him, or her, limping or, worse still, the nose or mouth starts swelling up. However, in non-emergency situations, there are some simple things that you can do at home to reduce the swelling and relieve the pain of an insect sting.
Removing a Bee Stinger
If you think your pet has been stung, you should look for a bee stinger. If you see the stinger, you should attempt to remove it by scrapping with your finger nails. It is not advisable to use your fingers or tweezers to pull the stinger, as this can cause the release of more toxins.
However, you will not see a stinger in all cases; your pet may have already removed it by rubbing at the sting site. Alternatively, of course, your animal may have been stung by a wasp, which does not leave a stinger behind. Therefore, if, after careful examination, you cannot find a stinger, do not worry.
How to Reduce the Swelling
After the stinger (if there was one) has been removed, you should get an ice pack and place it over the site of the sting. If possible, the ice pack should be kept on for approximately half an hour, as this will help to relive the pain and reduce any swelling. After this time, you should keep a close watch on your pet for at least 24 hours to ensure that he, or she, does not have an allergic reaction to the sting.
There are a number of home remedies that you can try, but remember these should never be used instead of proper veterinary care. In addition, these remedies should only be used in non-emergency situations. Try mixing a spoonful of baking soda with a little water until you get a thick paste, apply this to the site of the sting and leave for half an hour. If your animal has long fur, you may need to trim it to do this properly. Additionally, it is worth considering placing a cover over the paste to stop your pet licking it off.
Symptoms of an Allergic Reaction
Some of the symptoms that you should be watching out for include:
Anxiety
Fever
Pale gums
Restlessness
Weakness or lethargy
Quickness of breath
Difficulty breathing
Diarrhoea
Swelling in any part of the body other than the sting site
If you see any of these symptoms in your animal, it is essential that you seek the immediate assistance of a vet, Bear in mind that if your pet has been stung around the nose or mouth, he, or she, may experience swelling that restricts the throat and/or trachea.
What to do if Your Pet Goes into Shock
If an animal has a severe allergic reaction he, or she, could go into anaphylactic shock. This is a matter of life and death. If your pet has gone into shock, try to keep him, or her, as warm as possible and call the vet immediately. While waiting for the vet, try rubbing honey or Karo syrup on your pet's gums to keep him, or her, awake.
Of course, in the vast majority of cases, a sting is slightly painful, but nothing serious. However, it is wise to be aware of the possible dangers that your pet faces. Knowing what to do and remaining calm in an emergency could save your pet's life.
Of course, the chances are you will not notice that your pet has been stung, until you see him, or her, limping or, worse still, the nose or mouth starts swelling up. However, in non-emergency situations, there are some simple things that you can do at home to reduce the swelling and relieve the pain of an insect sting.
Removing a Bee Stinger
If you think your pet has been stung, you should look for a bee stinger. If you see the stinger, you should attempt to remove it by scrapping with your finger nails. It is not advisable to use your fingers or tweezers to pull the stinger, as this can cause the release of more toxins.
However, you will not see a stinger in all cases; your pet may have already removed it by rubbing at the sting site. Alternatively, of course, your animal may have been stung by a wasp, which does not leave a stinger behind. Therefore, if, after careful examination, you cannot find a stinger, do not worry.
How to Reduce the Swelling
After the stinger (if there was one) has been removed, you should get an ice pack and place it over the site of the sting. If possible, the ice pack should be kept on for approximately half an hour, as this will help to relive the pain and reduce any swelling. After this time, you should keep a close watch on your pet for at least 24 hours to ensure that he, or she, does not have an allergic reaction to the sting.
There are a number of home remedies that you can try, but remember these should never be used instead of proper veterinary care. In addition, these remedies should only be used in non-emergency situations. Try mixing a spoonful of baking soda with a little water until you get a thick paste, apply this to the site of the sting and leave for half an hour. If your animal has long fur, you may need to trim it to do this properly. Additionally, it is worth considering placing a cover over the paste to stop your pet licking it off.
Symptoms of an Allergic Reaction
Some of the symptoms that you should be watching out for include:
Anxiety
Fever
Pale gums
Restlessness
Weakness or lethargy
Quickness of breath
Difficulty breathing
Diarrhoea
Swelling in any part of the body other than the sting site
If you see any of these symptoms in your animal, it is essential that you seek the immediate assistance of a vet, Bear in mind that if your pet has been stung around the nose or mouth, he, or she, may experience swelling that restricts the throat and/or trachea.
What to do if Your Pet Goes into Shock
If an animal has a severe allergic reaction he, or she, could go into anaphylactic shock. This is a matter of life and death. If your pet has gone into shock, try to keep him, or her, as warm as possible and call the vet immediately. While waiting for the vet, try rubbing honey or Karo syrup on your pet's gums to keep him, or her, awake.
Of course, in the vast majority of cases, a sting is slightly painful, but nothing serious. However, it is wise to be aware of the possible dangers that your pet faces. Knowing what to do and remaining calm in an emergency could save your pet's life.
Pet Food Manufacturers Are Pet Lovers Too
The average household has one or more pets that are kept as companions by people who love them and wish to provide the best for them. Whether that pet has feathers, scales, fins, fur, or hair it most likely holds a special place in the owner' s heart. When it comes to pet food and what we feed our pets, we want to provide them with the best that we can afford but that is not always what' s best for them.
Balance is the key to a healthy diet
A well balanced diet is desirable for each of us and our pets requirements are the same. Plenty of vitamins, minerals, and dietary supplements given daily will insure our pets are healthy and live long happy lives. There are choices to be made when selecting high quality foods:
Dog food comes in dry (kibble), semi moist, or moist (canned) varieties
Cat food is available in dry (kibble), semi moist, or moist (canned) varieties
Bird food comes in seed form as well as dried greens, fruits, and vegetables
Hamster and other rodents eat an assortment of seeds and pellets manufactured for their dietary requirements
Snakes and other reptiles kept as pets generally eat insects and small mammals, depending on their size. This source of food typically comes from pet shops and stores
Each type of pet food is made with quality and safety in mind (even those insects must be disease free). The dry kibble, semi moist, and canned foods have been researched for decades to find the healthiest combination of ingredients to keep our pets healthy throughout their lifetime. Those who supply this high quality food are usually pet lovers themselves and have dedicated their lives to providing the best for man' s best friends.
Approved and guaranteed
The pet food industry is strictly regulated today, with rigid testing every step of the way. The dog and cat food industries do their own researching and continually perform tests involving quality of ingredients, taste, and appearance of each product they provide. While these pet foods must appear appetising to the pet owner, it is ultimately the pets themselves who determine what works and what does not appeal to them. The industry conducts taste tests with animals similar to those done for foods intended for human consumption. They actually have taste testers comprised of dogs, cats, birds, and other type pets who sample each food and through their reactions; help decide which flavour and what type of texture will be most appealing to the general pet population.
Stringent standards and sanitary conditions
Pet foods are held to high standards when it comes to the manufacturing process involved. We love our pets and want to provide them with the very best to eat. Feeding a dog or cat strictly meat would rapidly create problems because it would be unbalanced, leaving out many vital vitamins and minerals that animal requires (just as we do). A balanced pet food needs to contain:
Protein
Fat
Fibre
Omega fatty acids
Magnesium
Taurine
Other ingredients specific to the animal the food is intended for are also included to make this diet balanced with all our pet requires.
Balance is the key to a healthy diet
A well balanced diet is desirable for each of us and our pets requirements are the same. Plenty of vitamins, minerals, and dietary supplements given daily will insure our pets are healthy and live long happy lives. There are choices to be made when selecting high quality foods:
Dog food comes in dry (kibble), semi moist, or moist (canned) varieties
Cat food is available in dry (kibble), semi moist, or moist (canned) varieties
Bird food comes in seed form as well as dried greens, fruits, and vegetables
Hamster and other rodents eat an assortment of seeds and pellets manufactured for their dietary requirements
Snakes and other reptiles kept as pets generally eat insects and small mammals, depending on their size. This source of food typically comes from pet shops and stores
Each type of pet food is made with quality and safety in mind (even those insects must be disease free). The dry kibble, semi moist, and canned foods have been researched for decades to find the healthiest combination of ingredients to keep our pets healthy throughout their lifetime. Those who supply this high quality food are usually pet lovers themselves and have dedicated their lives to providing the best for man' s best friends.
Approved and guaranteed
The pet food industry is strictly regulated today, with rigid testing every step of the way. The dog and cat food industries do their own researching and continually perform tests involving quality of ingredients, taste, and appearance of each product they provide. While these pet foods must appear appetising to the pet owner, it is ultimately the pets themselves who determine what works and what does not appeal to them. The industry conducts taste tests with animals similar to those done for foods intended for human consumption. They actually have taste testers comprised of dogs, cats, birds, and other type pets who sample each food and through their reactions; help decide which flavour and what type of texture will be most appealing to the general pet population.
Stringent standards and sanitary conditions
Pet foods are held to high standards when it comes to the manufacturing process involved. We love our pets and want to provide them with the very best to eat. Feeding a dog or cat strictly meat would rapidly create problems because it would be unbalanced, leaving out many vital vitamins and minerals that animal requires (just as we do). A balanced pet food needs to contain:
Protein
Fat
Fibre
Omega fatty acids
Magnesium
Taurine
Other ingredients specific to the animal the food is intended for are also included to make this diet balanced with all our pet requires.
Love Your Pets and Keep Them Healthy
Pet health is very important to the world. The whole world caters to their pets, some places more than others. No normal person wants to see animals not live a full, happy life. Of course, this life should be pain free and as comfortable as possible.
The pet health business is a booming business. As with our human children, our pets must have the best of everything we can afford. This is why there are hundreds of pet foods to choose from, hundreds of toys to choose from and hundreds of veterinarians from which to choose. It makes it very difficult for us humans to know what to buy and who to select to take care of our pets. Today there are all sorts of fancy vitamins and minerals to help our pets stay healthy and beautiful.
Things have changed from many years ago. Today, we also have the option of selecting grooming facilities where many luxury treatments are available, not just wash, groom and dry. Today, you can get special shampoos, special conditioners, special manicures, special hairstyles and special teeth cleaning options.
As for boarding and grooming, you can get one or both. Today, you can board and groom or even groom and then board, so you pet is beautiful for the other animals. There are spas that are fancier than human spas. You can swim, sauna, run, jump play and then enjoy a gourmet meal and rest in a luxurious pet bed or especially prepared sofa or chair.
And of course, today, there is doggie day care, just like camp for children. These little doggies can play with their peers, tire themselves out and then go home and be ready to sleep the rest of the evening. This gives mom and dad a break.
Pet health is very important to all kinds of pets today, not just dogs, cats, horses and birds. Today, people love their hamsters, lizards, iguanas, snakes, bats, rats and spiders. Parents should advise their children to become veterinarians because the pet health care business is booming and there is no end in sight. Today, there are even health insurance plans to help you pay for your pet's care.
When your pet's health is no longer good and you know the end may be near, there are plans to help you with funerals and cremations for your beloved creatures. Many of us have to give them the best good-bye possible; to thank them for all of the good times they have shown us.
Yes, we are all very grateful for the advancements in pet health.
The pet health business is a booming business. As with our human children, our pets must have the best of everything we can afford. This is why there are hundreds of pet foods to choose from, hundreds of toys to choose from and hundreds of veterinarians from which to choose. It makes it very difficult for us humans to know what to buy and who to select to take care of our pets. Today there are all sorts of fancy vitamins and minerals to help our pets stay healthy and beautiful.
Things have changed from many years ago. Today, we also have the option of selecting grooming facilities where many luxury treatments are available, not just wash, groom and dry. Today, you can get special shampoos, special conditioners, special manicures, special hairstyles and special teeth cleaning options.
As for boarding and grooming, you can get one or both. Today, you can board and groom or even groom and then board, so you pet is beautiful for the other animals. There are spas that are fancier than human spas. You can swim, sauna, run, jump play and then enjoy a gourmet meal and rest in a luxurious pet bed or especially prepared sofa or chair.
And of course, today, there is doggie day care, just like camp for children. These little doggies can play with their peers, tire themselves out and then go home and be ready to sleep the rest of the evening. This gives mom and dad a break.
Pet health is very important to all kinds of pets today, not just dogs, cats, horses and birds. Today, people love their hamsters, lizards, iguanas, snakes, bats, rats and spiders. Parents should advise their children to become veterinarians because the pet health care business is booming and there is no end in sight. Today, there are even health insurance plans to help you pay for your pet's care.
When your pet's health is no longer good and you know the end may be near, there are plans to help you with funerals and cremations for your beloved creatures. Many of us have to give them the best good-bye possible; to thank them for all of the good times they have shown us.
Yes, we are all very grateful for the advancements in pet health.
Tips on the Balanced Diet of the Pets
Generally it is said that the pets are like the family members and become the essential in the life of each and every family member. They are very conscious about the food and the health of their pets. Even if you love your pets so much you are sometimes sternly ordered by the vets for not providing them the more food then their diet even if they are asking for food. Nutrients and the minerals are very common and the essential factor which decide the quality of the foodstuff for your domesticated animal. Some basic tips for your pets are mentioned below.
Food for dogs:
Every dogs breed has the different taste some like the food with the lots of vitamins and other like to have the more fat contains food. The food given to the puppies are full of vitamins, while the food which is required for the grown up dog is a food full of fats. So, some of them prefer to give their pets a homemade food, so you should keep in your mind about the vitamins and the nutrition based food for their pets.
Food for cats:
The cats need the extra and the perfect diet cats require the extra protein and the amino alkaloid acid with fatty acid. The kitten should not give the abundance of vitamins and proteins. The elder cat needs the light weighted food so that they can easily digest it.
Food for birds:
Your pet bird has its own balanced diet, they have their own taste sometime they like vitamins based food and on other hand they like the food which is full of minerals. It is quite difficult to judge them but the only think you can do is that never give them the food in huge quantity.
Food for fish:
There is not the specified food for the fishes because they love to have the variety of food. They like the food which contains the proteins, vitamins, carbohydrates and the lipids. Always try to give them different food because they like the different spices.
Prevention:
It is well said that the prevention is better then cure. The daily checking and the preventive health care will help you in many ways. Firstly it will help you from the needless anguish of the money. Secondly prevent your pets from the incredible pain and suffering.
This is all about how you can take care of your pets, I hope after reading this article you will take a good and the better care of your animal friends
Food for dogs:
Every dogs breed has the different taste some like the food with the lots of vitamins and other like to have the more fat contains food. The food given to the puppies are full of vitamins, while the food which is required for the grown up dog is a food full of fats. So, some of them prefer to give their pets a homemade food, so you should keep in your mind about the vitamins and the nutrition based food for their pets.
Food for cats:
The cats need the extra and the perfect diet cats require the extra protein and the amino alkaloid acid with fatty acid. The kitten should not give the abundance of vitamins and proteins. The elder cat needs the light weighted food so that they can easily digest it.
Food for birds:
Your pet bird has its own balanced diet, they have their own taste sometime they like vitamins based food and on other hand they like the food which is full of minerals. It is quite difficult to judge them but the only think you can do is that never give them the food in huge quantity.
Food for fish:
There is not the specified food for the fishes because they love to have the variety of food. They like the food which contains the proteins, vitamins, carbohydrates and the lipids. Always try to give them different food because they like the different spices.
Prevention:
It is well said that the prevention is better then cure. The daily checking and the preventive health care will help you in many ways. Firstly it will help you from the needless anguish of the money. Secondly prevent your pets from the incredible pain and suffering.
This is all about how you can take care of your pets, I hope after reading this article you will take a good and the better care of your animal friends
Tips to Get Good Placements For Pampered Pets
Anyone who has a much loved pet and who is due to travel away from home, should try out dog boarding in Snohomish or dog boarding in Bellevue as excellent places to leave their pampered pooches. These places cater for pets which cannot be left alone but they also offer some value added services thrown in as well.
Many people think that kennels are just places to dump their pet. But these days there is far more on offer than that. Training can be undertaken which will allow the pooch to be shown correct behavior for when the owner comes back to collect them.
For example, many pooches will have some very bad habits that the owner just does not have the heart to break. This can include begging at the table when people are eating, or perhaps jumping up at the owner when they come in from work. Even not allowing the spouse to kiss the owner is the problem with some pets when they feel like they are the alpha male in the family. However, all these habits can be broken very quickly by these experts who know the psychology of the animals.
Indeed, the owners themselves will also receive some training when they come to pick up their pet so that they can reinforce the training on home ground. Although owners may think that they are doing the right thing most of the time, it is unfortunate that most of us will just be too soft for our own good and this is where the kennels come in to sort out the problems.
Even if the pet is perfectly behaved, they may still need the company of other pets to get them familiar with their behavior. Being social animals makes them much more rounded individuals and they will be able to play and have fun with the other animals without there being a problem with bad tempers or biting etc.
After learning to play with the others, they will also be taken for a bath and brush up so that the owner gets a clean and fresh animal to take home with them. This is particularly good for those who have a hard time getting them into water and then washing them. At the kennels, they are shown how to do this with ease and make it a fun experience for the pet too so there will be no more headaches.
Finally, realizing that the pet is sometimes scared of others will reinforce the action of letting them stay at the kennel for some time. Owners sometimes feel a little nervous or selfish about putting their pets where it is unfamiliar. But there is no need to worry because the pet gets the best of everything while they are there. The attention, food and surroundings are the best and the pet will soon come to realize that it has not been abandoned. Even owners are surprised that their pet no longer exhibits nervous tendencies and their behavior is improved enormously over time.
Many people think that kennels are just places to dump their pet. But these days there is far more on offer than that. Training can be undertaken which will allow the pooch to be shown correct behavior for when the owner comes back to collect them.
For example, many pooches will have some very bad habits that the owner just does not have the heart to break. This can include begging at the table when people are eating, or perhaps jumping up at the owner when they come in from work. Even not allowing the spouse to kiss the owner is the problem with some pets when they feel like they are the alpha male in the family. However, all these habits can be broken very quickly by these experts who know the psychology of the animals.
Indeed, the owners themselves will also receive some training when they come to pick up their pet so that they can reinforce the training on home ground. Although owners may think that they are doing the right thing most of the time, it is unfortunate that most of us will just be too soft for our own good and this is where the kennels come in to sort out the problems.
Even if the pet is perfectly behaved, they may still need the company of other pets to get them familiar with their behavior. Being social animals makes them much more rounded individuals and they will be able to play and have fun with the other animals without there being a problem with bad tempers or biting etc.
After learning to play with the others, they will also be taken for a bath and brush up so that the owner gets a clean and fresh animal to take home with them. This is particularly good for those who have a hard time getting them into water and then washing them. At the kennels, they are shown how to do this with ease and make it a fun experience for the pet too so there will be no more headaches.
Finally, realizing that the pet is sometimes scared of others will reinforce the action of letting them stay at the kennel for some time. Owners sometimes feel a little nervous or selfish about putting their pets where it is unfamiliar. But there is no need to worry because the pet gets the best of everything while they are there. The attention, food and surroundings are the best and the pet will soon come to realize that it has not been abandoned. Even owners are surprised that their pet no longer exhibits nervous tendencies and their behavior is improved enormously over time.
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